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HomeMy WebLinkAboutAgenda Report - May 15, 2002 D-03dAGENDA TITLE: Lower Mokelumne River Watershed Stewardship Committee Overview MEETING DATE: May 15, 2002 PREPARED BY: Public Works Director RECOMMENDED ACTION: No action required. BACKGROUND INFORMATION: Assistant Water/Wastewater Superintendent Frank Beeler and Mokelumne River Watershed Coordinator John Brodie will present the Lower Mokelumne River Watershed Stewardship Plan and announce a community open house on Thursday, May 23, 2002. The City of Lodi has been a participant in the Lower Mokelumne River Watershed Stewardship Plan Steering Committee. The Committee is funded under a CalFed grant to the San Joaquin County Resource Conservation District to promote good stewardship of the Lower Mokelumne River (LMR). The City Council took action on July 1, 1998, to support this grant application. The Committee produced an educational video, "Reflections on the River", as one of the tools that will be used to promote proper management of land, homes, industries, etc., which influence the health and aesthetics of the river. On Thursday, May 23, 2002, from 2:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m., the Lower Mokelumne River Watershed Stewardship Plan Steering Committee will conduct an open house at Hutchins Street Square to present the video, distribute the "Mokelumne River Watershed Owner's Manual", and present the draft of the overall watershed stewardship plan prepared by the Committee (announcement attached). FUNDING: Not applicable. jLo Richard C. Prima, Public Works Director Prepared by Frank Beeler, Assistant Water/Wastewater Superintendent RCP/FB/dsg Attachment cc: Fran E. Forkas, Water/Wastewater Superintendent Frank Beeler, Assistant Water/Wastewater Superintendent John Brodie, Mokelumne River Watershed Coordinator Kathy Grant, Lodi Lake Docent APPROVED: H. Di on Flynn -- Ci y Mana ClwindowslTEMP\CC LMR film 37a.doc 05/07102 THE LOWER MOKELUMNE RIVER WATERSHED STEWARDSHIP PLAN Free Admission Thursday, May 23, 2002 Hutchins Street Square 125 S. Hutchins Street Lodi, CA 2:00-7.•00 p.m. This is your FIRST oppor- tunity to see a brief docu- mentary video on the Mokelumne River Funding for Watershed Steward- ship Plan and Community Open House was provided by a grant from CAVED to the San Joaquin County Resource Conservation District Hosted by: The San Joaquin County Resource Conservation District 1222 Monaco Court Suite 23 Stockton, California 95207 For More information: John Brodie Phone: 209-946-6241 Email: rvranglr@hotmail.com Come and learn how water- shed issues affect you and your family. Be prepared to look at a com- prehensive plan for watershed health crafted by members of your community. If YOU own property or live in the Lower Mokelumne River Watershed, this is your chance to review and comment on this voluntary, non -regulatory draft plan. The community open house for the Lower Mokelumne River Water- shed Stewardship Plan will be of interest to adults and children alike. A wide variety of groups will have booths with informational booths and displays from 2:00-7:00 p.m. Try a Taste of the Watershed As part of the community open house, agricultural products produced within the watershed will be available FREE to those attending from 5:00-7:00 p.m. Taste of the Watershed will feature complimentary wine tasting, tri -tip and other beef products, nuts, cheese, milk, and fruit ju ice. Bring a taste for wine, your appetite, and a friend to the Mokelumne River Watershed Stewardship Plan Community Open House. THE LOWER MOKELUMNE RIVER WATERSHED STEWARDSHIP PLAN Free Admission Thursday, May 23, 2002 Hutchins Street Square 125 S. Hutchins Street Lodi, CA 2:00-7.•00 p.m. This is your FIRST oppor- tunity to see a brief docu- mentary video on the Mokelumne River Funding for Watershed Steward- ship Plan and Community Open House was provided by a grant from CAVED to the San Joaquin County Resource Conservation District Hosted by: The San Joaquin County Resource Conservation District 1222 Monaco Court Suite 23 Stockton, California 95207 For More information: John Brodie Phone: 209-946-6241 Email: rvranglr@hotmall.com Come and learn how water- shed issues affect you and your family. Be prepared to look at a com- prehensive plan for watershed health crafted by members of your community. If YOU own property or live in the Lower Mokelumne River Watershed, this is your chance to review and comment on this voluntary, non -regulatory draft plan. The community open house for the Lower Mokelumne River Water- shed Stewardship Plan will be of interest to adults and children alike. A wide variety of groups will have booths with informational booths and displays from 2:00-7:00 p.m. Try a Taste of the Watershed As part of the community open house, agricultural products produced within the watershed will be available FREE to those attending from 5:00-7:00 p.m. Taste of the Watershed will feature complimentary wine tasting, tri -tip and other beef products, nuts, cheese, milk, and fruit juice. Bring a taste for wine, your appetite, and a friend to the Mokelumne River Watershed Stewardship Plan Community Open House. The Lower Mokelumne River Watershed Stewardship Plan is the result of three years of work. Crafted by a steering committee selected in the first phase of the project, the plan addresses issues of major concern within the watershed. These issues include: agriculture, cultural resources, economics, education, flood management, health and safety, recreation, water quality and erosion control, and wildlife. The steering committee that wrote the wa- tershed stewardship plan represents many diverse inter- ests. Mem- bers include Mokelumne River representa- tives from citizens and conservation groups, local, state, and federal govern- ments and government agencies, agricultural interests, landowners, and businesses. Funding for the steering committee, its ac- tivities, and the Watershed Stewardship Plan was provided by a grant from CALFED to the San Joaquin County Resource Conserva- tion District. If YOU own property or live in the Lower Mokelumne River Water- shed, this is your opportunity to re- view and comment on this volun- tary, non -regulatory draft plan. This event is hosted by: The San Joaquin County Resource Conservation District Phone: 209-946-6241 Fax: 209-946-6036 www.sjcrcd.org hursday May 23, 2002 Hutchins Street Square 125 S. Hutchins Street Lodi, California Hours: 2pm to 7pm Free admission The Lower Mokelumne River Watershed Stew- ardship Plan is designed to be a roadmap for the future. The plan encourages individual responsi- bility on the part of all residents of the watershed to protect, maintain, and improve the Lower Mokelumne River. Vi'-ttershed stewardship is more than just the ac- tions of a concerned few. We all live in a water- shed, so stewardship must be a part of the every- day lives for each and every one of us. Every- thing we do as we live, work and play has an effect on the quality of the water in the water- shed that we call home. Though we might live miles away from a river or stream, how we treat the environment at our homes and businesses affects water quality. Concerned citizens helped to Storm drains in streets and parking lots carry stormwater and contaminants draft this directly into the Mokelumne River and watershed the Delta. These drains do NOTgo to a sewage treatment plant. stewardship plan. By using the information contained in this plan, it is hoped we can avoid future government intervention on behalf of the Lower Mokelumne River. Please take time to examine this steward - ship plan carefully. Informational Booths The community open house for the watershed stewardship plan will be of interest to adults and children alike. A wide variety of groups will have booths with informational displays from 2:00 p.m. -7:00 p.m. including the Woodbridge Fire Department Water Rescue Team, Lodi Woodbridge Wine Grape Commis- sion, the City of Lodi Storm Drain Detectives, Lodi Lake Docents, San Joaquin County Mos- quito and Vector Control District, East Bay Municipal Utility District, the Natural Re- sources Conservation Service, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, and CAVED. ATaste of the WaterShed As a part of the community open house, agri- cultural products produced within the water- shed will be available to the public from 5:00-7:00 p.m. Taste of the Watershed will feature complimentary wine tasting, tri -tip and other beef products, nuts, cheese, milk, and fruit juice. Bring a taste for wine, your appetite, and a friend to the Mokelumne River Watershed Stewardship Plan Community Open House. Thursday, May 23 2002 Hutchins Street Square 125 S. Hutchins Street Lodi, California Dedication Ceremony The Lower Mokelumne River Watershed Stew- ardship Plan will be officially dedicated to the memory of Julian Bava. Mr. Bava was a long time Director of the San Joaquin County Re- source Conservation District. It was Julian's vi- sion that the RCD would someday be involved in efforts like this one. Though he was able to see his vision take shape, we are saddened that he is unable to be with us as we celebrate one phase of its completion. A plaque will be presented to the Bava family in recognition of Julian's commitment to this pro- ject and the work of the San Joaquin County Resource Conservation District. Please join us for this special ceremony at 6:00 p.m. For More Information, contact: John Brodie Mokelumne River Watershed Coordinator 209-946-6241 rvranglr@hotmail.com The San Joaquin County Resource Conservation District Phone: 209-946-6241 Fax: 209-946-6036 www.sjcrcd.org 1 Mokelumne River Watershed Owner's Manual © 2002 by The San Joaquin County Resource Conservation District All Rights Reserved Written and edited by John Brodie Collaborating Authors Alyson McCann, Carl DuPoldt, Carolyn Johnson, Bill McGowan, Barbara Kneen Avery, Elaine Andrews, Karen Filchak, Richard Castelnuovo, 191 Dean Solomon, Shirley Niemeyer, Michael P. Vogel, and Kathleen Parrott The Mokelumne River Watershed Owner's Manual was adapted with permission from Home *A *Syst.• An Environmental Risk Assessment Guide for the Home © 1997 by the Regents of the University of Wisconsin System, and with the cooperation of the Northeast Regional Agricultural Engineering Service. The original authors of that publication, are listed as collaborating authors here. Requests to reprint parts or all of the Mokelumne River Watershed Owner's Manual should be directed to the San Joaquin County Resource Conservation District 1222 Monaco Court #23 Stockton, California 95207 (209)-946-6241 or via e-mail through its website at www.sicrcd.org 0 D Acknowledgments The impetus for developing this manual was provided by the Lower Mokelumne River Watershed Stewardship Plan (LMRWSP) Steering Committee. The committee was funded by a CALFED grant awarded to the San Joaquin County Resource Conservation District. Funding to write this manual was provided through the Watershed Coordinator Grant Program, administered by the California Association of Resource Conservation Districts for the California Department of Conservation. A big thank you to the Board of Directors of the San Joaquin County Resource Conservation District: John B. Meek, Jr. (President), Bill Beatty (Vice President), Joe Furtado, Bill Koster, Ralph Lucchetti, Rogene Reynolds, Richard Rodriquez, John Thoming, Marden Wilber, and the late Julian Bava, for providing encouragement, positive feedback, and the equipment needed to make this project go first class. The author would like to thank the members of the LMRWSP subcommittee that reviewed this manual as it was developed: Bill Beatty, Brad Kissler, Brad Lange, and Cliff Ohmart. Thank you Amy Augustine for handling the duties of reporting on the progress of this project to the generous grantors at the California Department of Conservation. ID Thank you to Mike Callahan of the San Joaquin County of Public Works for providing the depth to groundwater map included in on page 4. • Thank you to Dave Simpson, Amy Rocha, and Mike Grinstead at the United States Department of Agriculture's Stockton Service Center for their assistance when computer or printer problems surfaced. Thank you to the original authors for their valued input on the changes made to adapt this for California residents in general, and residents of the Mokelumne River Watershed in particular. Thank you to Sarah Van Tiem of the National Farm*A*Syst/Home*A*Syst Office and Holly Hyde of the Northeast Regional Agricultural Engineering Service for the way they promptly answered all questions regarding the development and final publication of this manual. ii 10 About Home*A*Syst Home *A*Syst and Farm* A*Syst are national programs supported by the USDA Cooperative State Research Education and Extension Service (CREES), the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service (MRCS), and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). For more information, contact: Farm* A*Syst/Home*A*Syst, 303 Hiram Smith Hall Madison, Wisconsin 53706; 608-262-0024 or HOMEASYS@UWEX.EDU About NRAES The Northeast Regional Agricultural Engineering Service is a program focused on delivering engineering -related educational materials and training opportunities in support of northeast cooperative extension. All NRAES activities are guided by faculty members from northeast land grant universities. The program is guided by the NRAES Committee, which consists of a representative from each northeast state and the District of Columbia as well as the NRAES director and an administrative liaison appointed by the Northeast Cooperative Extension directors Committee. NRAES is housed in the Department of Agricultural and Biological Engineering at Cornell University. For more information or for a free publications catalog, contact NRAES, Cooperative Extension 152 . Riley -Robb Hall Ithaca, New York 14853-5701 (607) — 255-7654 or NRAES@CORNELL.EDU iii Initial Home Assessment* This checklist is a way to quickly scan for potential problem areas in your home. It will help you think about possible risks, and introduce you to many of the topics covered in this handbook. Sections in the handbook cover many other situations and practices not included in this initial assessment. If you answer "yes" to any of these questions, or think there might be risks or areas that need improvement, refer to the appropriate section in the handbook. Skip over any sections that don't apply to your home. Site Assessment: Protecting Water Quality Around Your Home YES NO Is your soil sandy or gravelly, allowing water to drain through it quickly? Is there a potential source of contamination—such as manure, pesticide, or fertilizer storage; a fuel tank; a septic system drain field; or eroding soil—on your property within 100 feet of a well, stream, lake, or wetland? Is the water table less than 10 feet below the soil surface? Stormwater Management YES NO Do the downspouts from your roof gutters empty out onto paved surfaces instead of onto grass, mulch, or gravel and thus keep rain from soaking into the round? Are fertilizers, pesticides, or salts stored where floodwaters might reach them? Are some parts of your property, particularly slopes, sparsely planted and without mulch, exposing the soil to erosion? Drinking Water Well Management YES NO Has it been more than two years since your water was tested for bacteria and nitrates? Do you have a dug or driven well instead of a drilled well? Does your well casing extend less than 12 inches above the ground, or is there a low area where rainwater runoff can collect around the well casing? Do you have abandoned wells on your property that have not been properly filled and capped? Household Wastewater: Septic Systems and Other Treatment Methods YES NO Has it been more than three years since your septic tank was pumped or inspected? Have you noticed any signs of a failing septic system such as slow drains, odors, or soggy ground cover over the drain field? Do you have standard toilets and faucets instead of water -conserving fixtures? a' "Adapted with permission from NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home iv 11 0 Initial Home Assessment (continued) Managing Hazardous Household Products YES NO Do you use products without knowing whether or not they are hazardous? Do you ever pour hazardous substances such as antifreeze, oil, paints, stains, polishes, or solvents down a sink drain, down a storm drain, in a ditch, or on theground? Do you burn plastics, batteries, or chemicals that could contaminate air? Lead In and Around the Home: Identifying and Managing Its Sources YES NO Was your home built before 1978 (the year lead was banned from residential paint)? Do children under the age of six live in your home? Are painted surfaces inside or outside your home peeling, chipping, or chalking? Does drinking water flow through lead pipes or contact lead solder? Yard and Garden Care YES NO If you use fertilizer, has it been longer than three years since you had your lawn and garden soil tested for nutrients? Do you ever use pesticides without reading the label or following the recommended doses or application instructions? Do you have areas of bare soil on your property that are susceptible to erosion? Liquid Fuels: Safe Management of Gasoline, Heating Oil, Diesel, and Other Fuels YES NO Do you store fuel for lawnmowers or other gas -powered equipment in non -approved containers such as glass 'ars, plastic jugs, or rusted cans? Do you store fuel or heating oil in an underground storage tank? If you have an aboveground fuel tank, does it lack protection against spills or leaks— for example, a catch basin or concretes ill ad? Managing Household Waste: Preventing, Reusing, Recycling, and Composting YES NO Do you purchase products that you really don't need? Do you buy products wrapped in excess packaging? Do you throw away yard or food wastes that could be composted? 0 A Letter From The Watershed Coordinator Thank you! By filling out the initial home assessment and accepting this workbook, you are taking the first steps toward improving your Mokelumne River Watershed. By taking the small steps recommended inside this workbook, you are helping to secure a safer, cleaner source of vital freshwater for your children, grandchildren, and generations to come. Don't doubt whether the small actions of one person can make a difference. They do! And the steps you take can influence how your neighbors, children, and others treat the watershed as well. Fresh water is a vital part of our everyday life. We drink it, cook with it, bathe in it, wash our dishes, clothes, and cars with it, nourish our gardens and flowers with it, irrigate our food crops, sustain our pets and livestock with it, and use it for recreational purposes like swimming, fishing, and boating. Without quality fresh water, our quality of life will be diminished. Whether you own or rent where you live, this guide will show you how to make small changes that can help save you money, and benefit the environment. The journey of a thousand miles begins with one small step. Thank you for taking that first step. Sincerely, C. Brodie ershed Coordinator Vi our use of this handbook is strictly voluntary. No one will peek over your shoulder to make sure you follow all the recommendations in this handbook. Only you will know the answers you give on the initial assessment sheet, and only you will know what actions, if any, you take. You may have been asked if we can contact you in the future about this handbook and the initial assessment you filled out. Copies of the initial assessment form were collected separately from your contact information so no one can determine which sheet belongs to a particular person or family. If you are contacted, it will be to ask general questions about the effectiveness and clarity of this workbook. Only with your permission will we ask any specific questions about any changes you might have made in your home environment or behavior. We hope that any action you take will be because it is something you believe in, and because you understand how important it is to act now. The steps outlined in this handbook are simple and inexpensive, yet they can have a tremendous impact on the quality of the Mokelumne River. That is true even if you or your household is the only one you know of taking some of these steps. We hope that you will share these tips and suggestions with your friends and neighbors in the Watershed. Contact the San Joaquin County Resource Conservation District to obtain additior for more information on the subjects covered within. Thank you so much for exploring ways to improve the Mokelumne River Watershed. You will reap the benefits of improvements to the river, as will other residents of the community, and the plants and animals that depend on the river for food and shelter. vii Using This Handbook During the course of reading the text, you will come across certain key words that will be printed in italics. These words are important to understanding this handbook. Definitions for these words can be found in a glossary at the back of this handbook. AYou can complete this handbook in as timely a manner as is best `` for you. The most important thing is not when you complete this handbook, but that you do complete this handbook. If you decide to make some of the changes that are recommended, `- you should establish a ranking system for the changes you want to make, and how soon you plan to implement those changes. For example, we recommend for the sake of your family's health and the health of the environment that you first address any high risks you find, if possible. And, be sure to write down a specific date to complete any of the changes you wish to make. Involve the Entire Family Working together on these assessments can be a worthwhile educational experience for everyone. If you value a clean environment and healthy surroundings, then using this handbook to help you make changes will be beneficial in several ways. It might even help you save money, or enhance the resale . value for homeowners. Directions For Completing Assessments Using a pencil, answer the questions "yes" or "no" or check the appropriate box. You might need to locate your home maintenance records, ask family members or neighbors, or seek assistance or further information. 0 For answers to general questions or for help in getting more information, feel free to contact the Watershed Coordinator at the San Joaquin County Resource Conservation District at 209-946-6241. Or contact the watershed coordinator via e-mail at: tvaterinfo@asicrcd.org viii 0 Table Of Contents Introduction........................................................................................1 Section 1: Physical Characteristics of Your Homesite ..............................2 Mokelumne River Watershed Depth to Groundwater Map.........................4 Section 2: Stormwater Management......................................................6 Section 3: Drinking Water Well Management.........................................12 Section 4: Household Wastewater.......................................................18 Section 5: Managing Household Hazardous Products ...........................27 Hazardous Products Example and Inventory........................................34 Section 6: Yard and Garden Care........................................................37 Section 7: Liquid Fuels: Safe Management of Gasoline, Heating Oil, IDDiesel, and Other Fuels............................................................44 • Section 8: Managing Household Waste: Preventing, Reusing, Recycicing, and Composting....................................................48 WhatCan You Recycle......................................................................52 Section 9: Special Considerations......................................................54 Contacts for More Information............................................................65 Glossary..........................................................................................66 1X a Mokelumne River Watershed Owner's Manual Introduction The Mokelumne River is a tremendous asset to Lodi and northern San Joaquin County. It is more than a natural resource—it is a community resource. Local recreation areas such as Lodi Lake Park exist solely because of the river. The Mokelumne River is enjoyed by anglers, pleasure boaters, and swimmers. Birdwatchers, hikers, and other nature lovers stroll the river's banks to admire and even study the plant and animal life that the river attracts and sustains. The Mokelumne also enhances the economic fortune of the area. The recreational activities mentioned above help bring tourism and tourist dollars to the area. The river is a source for irrigation water, which is vital to the health of the area's vineyards, orchards, and farms—the engine that drives the local economy. It's easy to see that the Mokelumne River contributes significantly to the quality of life in Lodi and northern San Joaquin County. That is why it is so vital to maintain and improve the quality of the water in the river. Most people know that pollution from human activities can harm the water in rivers like the Mokelumne. Many people believe that most pollution comes from heavy industry or point sources. That was once the case, but the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency now says most states are reporting that the largest share of pollution is coming from what are called non point sources. Non -point source pollution comes from natural and man-made contaminants that are picked up by runoff. Runoff water can come from rain, sprinkler systems, or even water from washing a car in your driveway or the street in front of your house. This is where this manual—and you—are most important. The Mokelumne River Watershed Owner's Manual will show you ways to reduce the amount of runoff generated at your home that enters the Mokelumne River. It will also show you how to reduce the amount of contaminants—natural and man-made—in that runoff. Protecting groundwater and surface water quality is essential to you, your community, and others "downstream." Making the changes recommended in this handbook will be a real investment in the future for your family and this community. The techniques described in this manual are simple and inexpensive, yet they can have a dramatic impact on the quality of the river that is a centerpiece for our community. • Section 1: Physical Characteristics of Your Homesitel What we do every day in and around our homes can affect water quality. Our use of everyday household products can impair the quality of water in nearby lakes, streams, and wetlands. Our activities and the products we use can also affect water below the ground—the water that supplies the wells we use for drinking water. In this 7 7# section of the book, we will introduce you to some of the ways to protect these important groundwater resources. The city of Lodi and many other cities and towns get the water they distribute to residents from wells. By understanding your behavior at home, and making changes where necessary, you can help protect the water in these wells from contamination. Common activities like driving your car, cutting your grass, or fertilizing your lawn or garden can affect water quality—even if you do them far away from the river or areas where there are wells for drinking water. By paying careful attention to how you manage activities in and around your home, you can protect your watershed and the water you drink. Activities that can impair water quality include the use and storage of fuel for lawn and garden tools, pesticide and fertilizer use and storage, waste disposal methods, and soil erosion. Animal wastes from pets are another threat to water quality, particularly if large amounts from horses, dogs, or other animals are allowed to accumulate on your property. For those who live in rural areas without city water and sewer services, drinking - water well construction and maintenance and septic system maintenance are other important factors. Soil Type and Water Contamination Water and other fluids can seep through nearly all soils. Different soils permit water and contaminants to seep through or run off at different rates. For example, fertilizers applied to lawns can flow downward into groundwater or across the land into surface water like the Mokelumne River. The size of soil particles influences which pollutants are able to reach groundwater. Some soils are better at trapping pollutants than others. Clay soils, which are made up of tiny particles, slow the downward movement of water, and in some cases can block water movement completely. Sandy soils allow for quick water movement, and silty soils occupy the middle range. Soils made up of large particles pose the greatest risk, because water seeps down through them readily without filtering out or decomposing pollutants. The ideal soil is a mix of midsize particles to allow infiltration and tiny particles, like clay or organic matter, to slow water movement and filter pollutants. Soil type can also affect surface water contamination. Although runoff occurs from all soil types, clay soils (the least porous) are more likely to cause surface water runoff. During a storm or flood, or even when watering your lawn, this runoff can wash contaminants from the land's surface into nearby surface waters. Eroding soil is also considered a water pollutant. Bare soil, especially on sloping land, can run off into streams, rivers, lakes, or estuaries. • ' Collaborating author Alyson McCann, University of Rhode Island Cooperative Extension. 2 The Importance of Soil Depth The depth of soil influences risks to groundwater. Usually, the deeper the soil, the farther water must seep down before reaching groundwater. Deep soils offer a better chance of filtering or breaking down pollutants before they reach groundwater. Generally, soils that are less than three feet deep present the highest "f risks for groundwater contamination. Characteristics of Bedrock Bedrock depth varies. It can be at the land's surface as in some foothill areas and the mountains, or it can be hundreds of feet down as in most of the Central Valley. The type of bedrock also influences pollution risks. Shale, granite, and other non -porous types of rock make an effective barrier that blocks the downward movement of water and contaminants. Other rocks such as limestone can be very porous, allowing water to move freely into groundwater. When bedrock is split or fractured, water can move through it unpredictably, spreading pollutants rapidly over long distances. Depth to Water Table If you dig a hole in your yard, you will eventually reach soil saturated with water. This water table marks the boundary where spaces between soil and rock contain air, roots, soil organisms, and some water, and the groundwater. In a wetland, the water table is at or just below the surface. In general, the closer the water table is to the surface, the more the groundwater is vulnerable to contamination. Groundwater and surface water are interconnected. Groundwater generally flows downhill, 10 following the same path as surface water, and eventually discharges into rivers, lakes, springs, wetlands, bays, or estuaries. If you keep impurities out of surface water but don't protect groundwater—or vice versa—contaminated water can occur where you least expect it. General Characteristics in the Mokelumne River Watershed Most of the soils in the Mokelumne River Watershed are of the medium risk silt/loam type. Soil depth is generally over 100 feet across San Joaquin County and within the watershed. The U.S. Geological Survey reports the bedrock underlying California's Central Valley is almost impermeable, and flow through bedrock is not significant. Depth to the water table is generally about 30 feet in the greater Lodi area. However, the depth to water table gets shallower moving west from the city of Lodi towards the Delta. In some of these western areas of the watershed, the depth to the water table is 10 feet or less. Review the enclosed water table map to estimate depth to the water table in the area where you live. With these considerations in mind, most (if not all) of the Watershed can be considered at medium risks for soil types, low risk for soil depth and bedrock. Determine to the best of your ability the depth to the water table at your residence using the map on the next page. :7 D 0 0 • Assessment 1-1: Physical Characteristics of Your Homesite* Do not depend solely on the physical characteristics of your soil, bedrock, or other site features to protect water quality. You must take informed steps to prevent pollution. Although you can't change your soil type or the depth to bedrock, you can account for these factors when choosing home management practices that do a better job of preventing environmental problems. Note especially the medium and high risks you identify. Keep them in mind as you complete work on other sections of this handbook. ' Source: NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk Assessment Guide for the Home. LOW RISK MEDIUM RISK HIGH RISK YOUR RISK Soil type and risks to Sand/gravel Silt/loam (mid- Clay (very tiny ❑ Low lakes, rivers, (large size particles) particles) ❑ Medium wetlands, or other particles) ❑ High surface water from runoff Soil type and risks to Clay (very Silt/loam (mid- Sand/gravel ❑ Low groundwater from tiny particles) size particles) (large particles) ❑ Medium infiltration ❑ High Soil depth Deep (over 12 Moderately Shallow (less ❑ Low feet) deep (3-12 feet) than three feet) ❑ Medium ❑ High Bedrock Solid, not Solid limestone Fractured ❑ Low permeable or or sandstone bedrock -any ❑ Medium fractured kind ❑ High Depth to water table Over 20 feet 10-20 feet Less than 10 ❑ Low feet ❑ Medium ❑ High Nearness to surface Over 100 feet 25-100 feet Less than 25 ❑ Low water feet ❑ Medium ❑ High Do not depend solely on the physical characteristics of your soil, bedrock, or other site features to protect water quality. You must take informed steps to prevent pollution. Although you can't change your soil type or the depth to bedrock, you can account for these factors when choosing home management practices that do a better job of preventing environmental problems. Note especially the medium and high risks you identify. Keep them in mind as you complete work on other sections of this handbook. ' Source: NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk Assessment Guide for the Home. bSection 2: Stormwater Mmagement2 This section examines potential risks to the environment and your health from stormwater runoff, and is intended to help you reduce the pollutants in runoff from around your home, and help you use landscaping and site management to control runoff. Stormwater is water from rain or melting snow that does not soak into the ground. It flows from rooftops, over paved areas and bare soil, and through sloped lawns. As it flows, this runoff collects and transports soil, pet waste, fertilizer, pesticides, oil, grease, litter, and other potential pollutants. Heavy rain isn't needed to send pollutants down storm drains and on their way to local streams, rivers, lakes, and wetlands. A garden hose alone can supply enough water to transport these contaminants. Contrary to popular belief, storm drains do not carry stormwater to a wastewater treatment plant. Any pollutants picked up by stormwater in Lodi and much of northern San Joaquin County ends up in the Mokelumne River. Stormwater pollution is treated differently than water pollution from discharge pipes because it comes from many sources. This non point source pollution is carried by stormwater from every street, parking lot, sidewalk, driveway, yard, and garden. The problem can only be solved with everyone's help. But, it doesn't require everyone's participation to make a difference. You can reduce the amount of contaminants that enter the Mokelumne River by reducing the amount of contaminants that get into stormwater from your home. Mk Stormwater pollution comes from many different sources. Silt, sand, clay particles and other debris that clouds water and degrades habitat for fish and water plants comes from several places in a watershed. These include: construction sites, bare spots in lawns and gardens, wastewater from washing cars and trucks on streets, driveways, or parking lots, and unprotected stream banks. Nutrients such as phosphorus that promote the growth of algae, which crowds out other aquatic life, comes from overused or spilled fertilizers, pet waste, grass clippings and leaves that are left on streets and sidewalks, or leaves that are burned in ditches. Disease organisms such as bacteria and parasites that can make the river and nearby lakes unsafe for swimming and wading get into stormwater from pet waste and garbage. Toxic chemicals and metals that threaten the health of fish and other aquatic life come from cars and trucks (brake and tire wear), motor vehicle exhausts, leaks and spills of oil, gas, and engine coolant, galvanized metal gutters and downspouts, burning leaves, and garbage. By making yourself aware of the problems, and taking some simple steps to reduce the amount of contaminants that enter Stormwater, you can make a difference that will benefit you, your family, the community, and the Mokelumne River. Please fill out the assessment on the next page to help identify stormwater risks on your property. Then, read about ways to reduce contaminants from your home and neighborhood that enter storm water on the following pages. Note all medium and high risks on the action checklist at the end of this section. Using the checklist and information contained in this section, you can formulate an action plan to reduce pollution from your home. . 2 Collaborating authors Carl DuPoldt, Natural Resources Conservation Service, and Carolyn Johnson, University of Wisconsin Cooperative Extension. 0 0 Assessment 2-1: Reducing Pollutants in Runoff* 0 ' Source: NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk Assessment Guide for the Home. LOW RISK MEDIUM RISK HIGH RISK YOUR RISK Automotive Oil drips and fluid spills Drips and spills Used oil, engine ❑ Low wastes are cleaned up. Dirty car are not cleaned coolant, and other ❑ Medium parts and other vehicle up. Car parts and wastes are dumped ❑ High wastes are kept out of other vehicle down the storm sewer, reach of stormwater runoff. wastes are left on in a ditch, or on the unpaved areas ground. outside. Car washing Cars and trucks are taken Cars, trucks, or Cars, trucks, or other ❑ Low to a commercial car wash other items are items are washed on a 0 Medium or spray booth. washed on a lawn driveway, street, or 17 High or gravel drive. other paved area. Storage of Chemicals are stored in Chemicals are Chemicals are stored ❑ Low pesticides, waterproof containers in a stored in in non -waterproof ❑ Medium fertilizers, and other potentially garage, or shed that is waterproof containers outdoors or ❑ High harmful protected from stormwater. containers but within reach of chemicals within reach of stormwater. stormwater. Handling and use Spills are cleaned up Applications are Spills are not cleaned ❑ Low of pesticides, immediately, particularly not delayed to up. Products are used ❑ Medium fertilizers, and outdoor on paved surfaces. avoid rain. in higher amounts I] High chemicals Minimum amounts of than what is chemicals are applied recommended on the according to label label. directions. Applications are delayed to avoid rain. Pet and animal Animal and pet wastes are Animal wastes Animal wastes are left o Low wastes flushed down the toilet or are left to on paved surfaces, o Medium buried away from gardens, decompose on concentrated in pen or ❑ High wells ditches, or areas grass or soil. yard areas, or dumped where children play; or are Wastes are down a storm drain or wrapped and placed in the scattered over a in a ditch garbage for disposal. wide area. Grass clippings, Grass clippings, leaves, Leaves and other Grass clippings, ❑ Low leaves, and other and other yard wastes are yard wastes are leaves, and other yard ❑ Medium yard waste swept off paved surfaces piled on the lawn wastes are left on ❑ High and onto lawns away from next to the street driveways, streets, water flow routes. Leaves for collection. and other paved areas and other yard wastes are to be carried off by composted. stormwater. Yard waste is burned on- site. 0 ' Source: NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk Assessment Guide for the Home. Reducing Pollutants in Runoff Oil stains on your driveway and outdoor spills of engine coolant, fuel, or other automotive fluids are easily carried away by runoff. An oily sheen on runoff from your driveway is a sure signal to be more careful. Pans, carpet scraps, and matting can catch drips while routine care can prevent cars from leaking, and help identify leaks. If you change your own oil, avoid spills and always collect waste oil for recycling. Oily automotive parts should be stored where rain and runoff cannot reach them. Never dump used oil, engine coolant, or gasoline down a storm drain, in a ditch, or on the ground. They will end up in the river or can pollute your drinking water. Washing your car in the driveway creates runoff without the help of a rainstorm—your hose provides the water. The dirty, soapy runoff drains directly into storm sewers, picking up oil and other pollutants as it goes. Try washing your car on the lawn or, better yet, take it to a commercial car wash or spray booth that sends its dirty water to a wastewater treatment plant. i i Household Product Storage Most people store lawn and garden products like weed killers, insecticides, and fertilizers. If stormwater or floodwater reaches these products, it can transport them into storm drains, surface water, or possibly wells. A variety of other products including pool chemicals and stored fuel for lawnmowers can also cause trouble if they are washed away. It is vital to keep these products in waterproof containers and store them high and out of the path of runoff or floods. One way to avoid storage problems is to buy only what you need for a particular task and use up the product. IDBut safe storage is only one part in preventing contaminated runoff. When mixing fuels for leaf blowers or chainsaws, or mixing chemicals like fertilizers, try to do it within a washtub so spills will be contained. If chemicals are spilled, act quickly to contain and clean up the spill, particularly on paved surfaces. See Section 6, Yard and Garden Care for more information on the proper use and handling of yard and garden products. Pet and Animal Wastes Droppings from dogs, cats, and other commonly kept animals like exotic birds, horses, rabbits, and others can contain substances that promote the growth of algae if they enter rivers and lakes. These droppings can also be a source for disease. The risk of stormwater contamination rises if pet wastes are left on sidewalks, streets, or driveways where runoff can carry them into storm drains. Droppings that are not mixed with litter or other materials should be flushed down the toilet. In some cases, droppings can be buried or wrapped and put in the garbage for disposal. Yard and Garden Wastes Rain or sprinklers can wash grass clippings and other wastes from sidewalks, driveways, or roads into storm drains. Leaves and other plant debris are found naturally in streams and lakes, but excessive amounts of plant matter can build up, especially in areas with many homes. It is best to sweep clippings back onto the grass and compost leaves and other garden wastes on your property. This recycles nutrients. Burning yard waste is against the law within the city limits of Lodi, and is also a fire hazard during dry months—especially in northeastern sections of the watershed dominated by rangeland. Assessment 2-2: Landscaping and Site Management to Control Runoff` C� Adapted with permission from NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk Assessment Guide for the Home. LOW RISK MEDIUM RISK HIGH RISK YOUR RISK Bare soil in Bare spots in the lawn Grass or other ground Spots in the lawn or ❑ Low lawns and are promptly seeded and cover is spotty, garden are left ❑ Medium gardens topped with a layer of particularly on slopes. without mulch or ❑ High straw or mulch. Bare soil vegetation for long in gardens is covered periods. with mulch. Bare soil during Bare soil is seeded and Soil is left bare until Soil is left bare and ❑ Low construction mulched as soon as construction is no sediment ❑ Medium possible (before completed. Sediment barriers are used. v High construction is barriers are installed completed). Sediment and maintained to barriers are used until detain muddy runoff grass covers soil. until grass covers soil. Paved surfaces Paved surfaces are Some small areas are Paved surfaces are ❑ Low minimized. Alternatives paved for patios or used extensively. v Medium such as wood chips or basketball. ❑ High paving blocks are used for walkways, patios, and other areas. Storrnwater Yard is sloped away from No special water No water diversion ❑ Low diversion the foundation. diversion methods are methods are tried. o Medium Downspouts direct roof installed. Stormwater Stonmwater flows ❑ High drainage away from the does not flow near the near the foundation. house. foundation. Roof drainage Downspouts and drip Some downspouts and Most or all drip ❑ Low lines direct roof drainage drip lines discharge lines or downspouts ❑ Medium onto a lawn or garden water onto paved discharge onto ❑ High where water soaks into surfaces or grassy areas paved surfaces, or the ground. where water runs off. are connected direct to storm drains. Landscaping Yard is landscaped to No areas are land- There is no ❑ Low and buffer slow the flow of scaped to encourage landscaping to slow ❑ Medium strips. stormwater and provide water to soak in. Yard the flow of storm- ❑ High areas where water soaks is relatively flat and water, especially on into the ground. little runoff occurs. hilly, erodable Unmowed buffer strips Mowed grass or spotty properties. Stream of thick vegetation are vegetation exists banks or lakeshores left along streams or adjacent to a stream or are eroding. lakeshores. lake. C� Adapted with permission from NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk Assessment Guide for the Home. Landscaping and Property Management to Control Runoff Areas of bare soil are often found in vegetable and flower gardens, on newly seeded lawns, and around construction projects. Rainwater can remove large amounts of soil and carry it to rivers, lakes, and wetlands. Planting grass or other ground cover is the best way to stop erosion. It is best to use native plants and grasses in order to reduce the need for expensive fertilizers and the watering that will be required for non-native plants not adapted to the long, dry summers of the Central Valley. Putting straw or chip mulch on gardens or newly seeded areas will slow erosion. Hard Surfaces Concrete and asphalt roads, driveways, and walkways prevent rain from soaking into the ground. When you have a choice, consider alternative materials such as gravel or wood chips for walkways. Avoid paving areas for patios, or consider a deck as an alternative. Where you need a more solid surface, consider using interlocking cement blocks or rubber mats that allow spaces for rainwater to seep into the ground. If you must pave or pour concrete, keep the paved area as small as possible. The roof of your house is similar to a paved area in that it sheds water. If downspouts from roof gutters empty onto grassy areas, the water will have a chance to soak into the ground, and there is less water to carry contaminants into storm drains. Wherever possible, aim downspouts away from foundations and paved surfaces. For roofs without gutters, plant grass or spread mulch or gravel under the drip line to prevent soil erosion and increase the ground's ability to absorb water running off of the roof. Preventing and Reducing Runoff Keeping water from leaving your property, or at least slowing its flow as much as possible, is an essential part of stormwater management. In residential neighborhoods, many lawns are sloped to encourage water to runoff onto streets. To slow the flow of stormwater or sprinkler runoff, landscape low areas with shrubs and flowers to encourage water to soak into the ground. It is best to use native plants and flowers.3 Since native plants are adapted to the soil types and local climate, they won't require fertilizers or watering. Plus, they'll add beauty to your property. If you have a large lot, consider "naturalizing" areas with prairie, woodland, or wetland plants. If your property adjoins the river, a stream, or lake, one of the best ways to slow and filter runoff is to leave a buffer strip of thick vegetation along the waterfront. This vegetation will also help provide homes for birds, beneficial insects such as butterflies, and other wildlife. 3 Contact the San Joaquin County Resource Conservation District or the California Native Plant Society for advice on choosing native plants and flowers for areas around your home. See page 65 for contact information. 10 Action Checklist* Stormwater Management Write all high and medium risks below. What can you do to reduce the risk? Set a target date for action. Sample: Pet wastes left in areas where runoff occurs. Collect waste in bags for disposal in trash (not in recycling). One week from today: September 16 • - Source NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk Assessment Guide for the Home 11 PSection 3: Drinking Water Well Management4 Not everyone in the Mokelumne River Watershed gets drinking water from a well on personal property. But, drinking water for nearly everyone in the watershed comes from a well. For example, the drinking water distributed to residents by the city of Lodi is pumped from wells. This section of the handbook might not apply to you as someone who uses a private well for drinking water. But it is important to understand that your actions do affect the groundwater sources that many people in this watershed rely on for drinking water. It is also possible that you might have an old well on your property. This section of the handbook should also help private well owners and users to better understand the condition of wells, and how they should be cared for. Assessment tables in this section help to identify situations and practices that are safe. These tables also identify situations and practices that require prompt attention. The first table covers how a well's location in relation to other features on or near your property will determine some pollution risks. The nearness of the well to j; sources of pollution and the direction of groundwater flow between pollution sources and your well are the primary concerns. The second table focuses on well construction, maintenance, water testing, and unused wells. Old or poorly designed wells increase the risk of groundwater contamination by allowing rain to reach the water table without being filtered through soil. Good 1P maintenance means keeping the well area clean and accessible, keeping pollutants as far away as possible, and having a qualified well -driller or pump installer check the well periodically, or when problems are suspected. Testing the water helps you monitor water quality, and identify potential health risks to you and your family. And abandoned wells, if improperly sealed, can provide contaminants with a direct route to groundwater. Fill out the assessment tables to the best of your ability. Then, read about ways to protect wells and groundwater from contamination. Note all medium and high risks on the checklist at the end of this section. Using the checklist and information contained in this section, you can formulate an action plan to protect groundwater drinking wells and reduce pollution from your home. a° Collaborating author Bill McGowan, University of Delaware Cooperative Extension. 12 0 0 Assessment 3-1: Well Location* Adapted with permission from NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home 13 LOW RISK MEDIUM RISK HIGH RISK YOUR RISK Position of Well is uphill Well is level with or Well is downhill from ❑ Low well in from all pollution uphill from most pollution sources or in 0 Medium relation to sources. Surface pollution sources. Some a pit or depression. o High pollution sources water doesn't surface water runoff may Surface water runoff reach well or is reach well. reaches well. diverted. Separation Distances from Some but not all distances Distances from most ❑ Low distances potential from potential pollution or all potential I] Medium between well and pollution sources sources meet state pollution sources do ❑ High pollution meet or exceed all minimum requirements. not meet state sources state minimum minimum re uuements. requirements. Soil type Soil is fine- Soil is medium textured Soil is coarse-textured ❑ Low textured like clay like silt or loam. like sand, sandy loam, ❑ Medium loams or silty or gravel. ❑ High clay. Subsurface The water table or The water table or The water table or ❑ Low conditions fractured bedrock fractured bedrock is about fractured bedrock is ❑ Medium is deeper than 20 20 feet. shallower than 20 ❑ High feet. feet. Adapted with permission from NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home 13 0 Well Location When possible, locate a well where surface water (for example, stormwater runoff) drains away from it. If a well is downhill from a leaking fuel storage tank, septic system, or over -fertilized farm field, it runs a greater risk of becoming contaminated than a well uphill from these pollution sources. In areas where the water table is near the surface (western areas of the watershed) groundwater often flows in the same direction as surface water. But, the slope of the surface does not always indicate the direction of groundwater flow. Soil and Bedrock Type, Distance to the Water Table Pollution risks are greater when the water table is near the surface because contaminants have a short distance to travel. Groundwater contamination is more likely if soils are shallow (not the case in the Mokelumne River Watershed) or if they are highly porous (sandy or gravelly). For more information on soil and bedrock characteristics, and the water table in San Joaquin County, see Section 1 Physical Characteristics of Your Homesite on page 2. New Wells It is best to provide as much separation as possible between your well and potential pollution sources. These potential pollution sources include underground fuel storage tanks, septic systems, and abandoned wells. Separating your well from a pollution source might reduce the chance of contamination, but it does not guarantee that the well will be safe. Fill out the assessment on the next page to rate your risks for well construction, maintenance, water testing, and unused wells. Then read the text on the following page to find out ways to reduce your risks. Some choices might not correspond to your exact situation, so choose the response that best fits. Be sure to record any medium or high risks on the action checklist on the last page of this section. 14 0 • Assessment 3-2: Well Construction, Maintenance, and Testing* ' Adapted with permission from NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home. 15 LOW RISK MEDIUM RISK HIGH RISK YOUR RISK Well age Well is less than 20 Well is 20-50 years Well is more than 50 ❑ Low years old. old. years old. ❑ Medium ❑ High Well type Drilled well. Driven point (sand Dug well. o Low point) well. ❑ Medium ❑ High Casing Casing is 12 or more Casing is at the Casing is below the ❑ Low height inches above the surface or up to 12 surface or in a pit or p Medium above land surface. If the area inches above the basement. v High surface floods, casing is 1-2 surface. feet above the highest recorded flood level. Condition No holes or cracks are No holes or cracks Holes or cracks are ❑ Low of casing visible. Cap is tightly are visible. Cap is visible. Cap is loose or ❑ Medium and well cap (seal) attached. A screened loose. missing. Running 13 High vent faces the ground. water can be heard or seen. Casing Casing extends 50 or Casing extends 20- Casing extends less ❑ Low depth more feet below the 50 feet below the than 20 feet below the ❑ Medium relative to land surface. land surface. land surface. 13 High land surface Backflow Measures are taken to Measures are No measures are taken ❑ Low protection prevent backflow and, sometimes taken to to prevent backflow. ❑ Medium where necessary, anti- prevent backflow. No anti -backflow ❑ High backflow devices are No anti -backflow devices are installed. installed. devices are installed. Well Well was inspected Well was inspected Well was inspected ❑ Low inspection within the last ten years. 10-20 years ago. over 20 years ago, or ❑ Medium anpd "tune- don't know when well 13 High was last inspected. Water Consistent, good water Some tests do not Water is not tested. ❑ Low Testing quality. Tests meet meet standards or Water is discolored ❑ Medium standards for bacteria, tests approach after a rainstorm. There v High nitrate, and other standards. are noticeable changes contaminants. in color, odor, and taste. Unused There are no unused There are unused There are unused, ❑ Low wells on wells, or there are wells that are not unsealed wells that are o Medium your unused wells that are sealed but are in poor condition, near ❑ High property or in your properly sealed. capped and isolated pollution sources, area from contaminants. 1 and/or uncapped. ' Adapted with permission from NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home. 15 0 Well Construction, Maintenance, and Unused Wells Most residential wells today are drilled wells, and are usually four to eight inches in diameter. Well drillers commonly install a steel or plastic pipe casing to prevent the well hole from collapsing during drilling (residential wells can be 200 feet deep or more). The space between the casing and the sides of the hole is a direct channel for surface water and pollutants to reach the water table. Drillers usually fill the space with cement or clay. The depth of casing required for your well depends on the depth to groundwater and the nature of the soils and bedrock below, but a minimum 20 feet of casing should be used for all wells. The casing should extend at least 12 inches above the surface of the ground. If there are floods where you live, the casing should extend up to two feet above the highest recorded flood level for the property. The ground around the casing should slope away from the wellhead in all directions to prevent water from pooling around the casing. The well cap should be firmly attached to the casing, with a vent that allows only air to enter. If your well has a vent, be sure it faces the ground, is tightly connected to the well cap, and is .- properly screened to keep insects out. Well Inspection You should visually inspect the condition of your well casing for holes or cracks. Examine the part that extends up out of the ground. Remove the cap and inspect the inside casing using a flashlight. If you can move the casing around by pushing it, there could be a problem with the well casing's ability to keep out contaminants. Well equipment doesn't last forever and should be inspected by a qualified well driller or pump installer every 10-15 years. Keep well construction details along with dates and results of maintenance visits for the well and pump. These records will help you and future owners follow a good maintenance schedule. Abandoned, Unused Wells Some properties have wells that are no longer used. Older homes can have an abandoned shallow well that was installed when the house was first built. If not properly filled and sealed, these wells can provide a direct channel for pollutants in runoff to reach groundwater. A licensed, registered well driller or pump installer should be hired to close these wells. Effective well plugging calls for experience with well construction materials and methods. Money spent sealing a well will be a bargain compared to the potential costs of clean up or the loss of property value if contamination occurs. Water Testing If you have a well, your water should be tested once each year. Water should be tested more often if: someone in your household is pregnant or nursing, there are unexplained illnesses in the family, neighbors find a dangerous contaminant in their water, you note a change in water taste, odor, color, or clarity, or if there is a spill of chemicals or fuel into or near your well. The four most common indicators of trouble in well water are: bacteria, nitrates, pH, and total dissolved solids (TDS). You can seek further advice on testing from your local Cooperative Extension Office or health 0 department. 16 C Action Checklist* Drinkinq Water Well Management Write all high and medium risks below. What can you do to reduce the risk? Set a target date for action. Sample: Water hasn't been tested for 10 years. Smells different than it used to. Have sample tested by county department of public health services. One week from today: October 11 0 ` Source NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk Assessment Guide for the Home 17 . Section 4: Household Wastewaters This section provides general guidelines for safe management of household wastewater. Wastewater treatment systems help protect your health and the environment. Household wastewater from sinks, toilets, washing machines, and showers carries dirt, soda, food, grease, and bodily wastes out of your house. This wastewater also carries disease -causing bacteria, viruses, and other pathogens as well as nitrogen, phosphorous, and organic wastes (nutrients). These nutrients promote weed growth and lower oxygen levels in surface water and thus affect fishing and recreational use of rivers and lakes. Wastewater treatment systems are designed to remove or break down these contaminants before they enter groundwater, or nearby lakes, streams, or wetlands. Most people in the city of Lodi and communities like Woodbridge are connected to community sewer systems. Houses in these communities are connected to sanitary sewer systems. The sanitary sewage system transports household wastewater to a sewage treatment plant. This wastewater is filtered, treated, and disinfected before it is discharged into a stream or river. This section of the handbook is generally more for residents who have septic systems buried in their yards. But even if wastewater is sent to a sewage treatment plant, there are still ways you can reduce the impact your wastewater has on your community and the environment. Conserving water and being careful about what you put down the drain are easy ways to help. Wastewater treatment is often out -of -sight and out -of -mind until problems occur. Knowing the . basics about your household system and taking simple precautions can prevent problems. It's a wise investment to keep your system working well because replacing a failed system can cost thousands of dollars. AM A typical septic system consists of a septic tank, distribution system, and drainfield. These drainfields are sometimes known by other names such as: soil absorption field, leach field, or tile field. There are also some alternative household wastewater treatment options. This handbook will deal with the most common septic system. For information on alternative systems, contact your local Cooperative Extension agent, or the San Joaquin County Health Department. Fill out the assessment tables to the best of your ability. Then, read about ways to manage and reduce household wastewater. Note all medium and high risks on the checklist at the end of this section. Using the checklist and information contained in this section, you can formulate an action plan to pinpoint and minimize risks before they become expensive health or environmental problems. 0 5 Collaborating author Barbara Kneen Avery, College of Human Ecology, Cornell Cooperative Extension. 1D • Assessment 4-1: Septic System Design and Location* 1P * Source: NRAES-87, Home*A*Svst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home 19 LOW RISK MEDIUM RISK HIGH RISK YOUR RISK Capacity of Tank is designed Capacity just meets Bathrooms, ❑ Low System to handle more load requirements, bedrooms, or v Medium wastewater than but I watch out for water using ❑ High required, based factors indicating appliances are on the size of the system overload. added without home. Water conservation reexamining the measures are taken. capacity of the wastewater system. Separation Drainfield is at Drainfield is Drainfield is ❑ Low distance least 100 feet between 50 and 100 less than 50 feet ❑ Medium from any well or feet from a well or from a well or ❑ High surface water. surface water. surface water. Age of system System is 5 years System is between System is more ❑ Low holding tank old or less 6 and 20 years old. than 20 years ❑ Medium YEAR old. v High INSTALLED: Effluent filter An effluent filter An effluent filter is There is no ❑ Low is installed and installed but not effluent filter ❑ Medium cleaned regularly. cleaned often installed on the ❑ High enough. septic tank outlet. Safety devices An alarm on the There is no ❑ Low pumping chamber alarm to ❑ High or holding tank indicate tank indicates that the overflow or that tank is full or power has been power has been cut off to the cut off to the pump. um . Backflow A backflow valve No backflow ❑ Low protection is installed to valve is ❑ High prevent backup installed to during floods. prevent backup during floods. * Source: NRAES-87, Home*A*Svst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home 19 0 Septic System Design and Location Your household septic system must be designed for the maximum occupancy of your home. Both the septic tank and drainfield should have the capacity to treat all the wastewater generated in your house, even at times of peak use. In San Joaquin County, a three-bedroom home requires a septic tank with a capacity of 1,200 gallons. For a four-bedroom home, the tank capacity requirement is 1,600 gallons. For each additional bedroom, increase the tank capacity by 400 gallons. The septic tank should be large enough to hold two days worth of wastewater (two days is long enough to allow solids to settle out by gravity). Household water use in excess of the system's design capacity can lead to incomplete wastewater treatment or system failure. More frequent pumping of your septic tank or conserving water can extend the life of the system. Adding a bathroom or a water -using appliance (such as a Jacuzzi, dishwasher, or water softener) might require an expansion of your septic system. Septic Systems Performance and Safeguards If you have a septic system, then it is likely your household water is supplied by a well on your property. To prevent contamination of water supplies, San Joaquin County requires leach lines be at least 100 feet from any drinking water well or streambed, and 200 feet from a lake. (If your septic system was installed prior to 1972, the separation required in San Joaquin County is 50 feet from a drinking water well or flowing water.) The greater the separation, the less chance there is of 10 contaminating the water supply. It is better if your septic system is downhill from a well. Septic systems should last 15 to 40 years or more, depending on how they were designed and how well they are maintained. If your septic tank is made of steel, it will rust and need replacement. The older a system is, the more likely that it does not meet the latest standards. • Solids that do not settle out in the tank can be carried out of the tank with effluent and clog the drainfield. This will lead to premature system failure. By placing an effluent filter on the outlet, you can capture small particles and prevent them from clogging the drainfield. Bacteria that slowly digest wastes in the tank produce gas bubbles. A gas baffle near the outlet deflects the bubbles and the disturbed sludge away from the outlet. An alarm should be installed on holding tanks or pumping chambers to warn you if the tank is nearly full. If your system depends on a pump (instead of gravity), you should have a backup power supply available in addition to adequate storage capacity in the tank. In flood hazard areas, backflow valves should be installed on the main distribution line to prevent waste from flooding back into the tank and your home. 20 Assessment 4-2: On-site System Maintenance* * Source: NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental risk -Assessment Guide for the Home 21 LOW RISK MEDIUM RISK HIGH RISK YOUR RISK Maps and I keep a map and The location of my The location of my 0 Low records good records of tank and date of last system is unknown. 1 p Medium repairs and pumping are known but do not keep a record of ❑ High maintenance. not recorded. pumping and repairs. Tank The septic tank is The septic tank is The septic tank is not 0 Low pumping pumped on a regular pumped, but not pumped. ❑ Medium (including holding basis as determined regularly. ❑ High tanks) by an annual The holding tank inspection, or about overflows or leaks every three to five between pumpings. years. The holding tank is um ed as needed. Condition The tank and baffles The condition of the ❑ Low of tank and are inspected for tank and baffles is ❑ High baffles cracks; repairs are unknown. made promptly. Drainfield Vehicles and other Occasionally, the Vehicles, livestock, ❑ Low protection heavy objects or drainfield is compacted heavy objects, or other 13 Medium activities are kept by heavy objects or disturbances are ❑ High from the drainfield activities. permitted in the area. drainfield area. Diverting All surface runoff is Some surface water Runoff from land, ❑ Low surface diverted away from flows into the rooftops, driveways, v Medium water the drainfield. drainfield area. etc. flows into the ❑ High drainfield. Plantings Grass or other Trees and shrubs are ❑ Low over the shallow -rooted growing on or near the ❑ High drainfield plantings are over the drainfield. drainfield. Signs of Household drains Household drains run Household drains back ❑ Low trouble flow freely. There slowly. Soil over the up. Sewage odors can ❑ Medium are no sewage odors drainfield is sometimes be noticed in the house ❑ High inside or outside. Soil wet. or yard. Soil is wet or over the drainfield is spongy in the drainfield firm and dry. Well area. Well water tests water tests negative positive for coliform for coliform bacteria. bacteria. * Source: NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental risk -Assessment Guide for the Home 21 0 On -Site System Maintenance Keeping good records each time your septic system is pumped, inspected, or repaired will help you make cost-effective maintenance decisions. This information is also valuable if you sell or transfer your property. If you have not worked with your septic system before, you might need to contact the previous homeowner or a pumper's records for information that could include the location of your system and most recent pumping, or other maintenance performed. If you secured a county permit prior to installing your septic system, the Environmental Health Division in the San Joaquin County Public Health Office will have a map showing the location of the septic system on your property. Regular pumping is the most important action you can take to maintain your system. As more solids accumulate in the tank, particles are more likely to flow out of the tank and into the drainfield. The cost of pumping the septic tank (typically less than $300) is far less than the expense of replacing a drainfield clogged by escaping solids (could approach $10,000). The best way to determine when to pump your tank is to have it inspected annually. Pumping as needed based on the results of periodic inspections will minimize your maintenance costs and maximize the system's longevity.' Inspection can also identify problems before they cause a backup or a drainfield failure. Generally, your tank should only need to be pumped .. every three to five years. But the need for pumping will vary based on the . size of your septic tank, the amount of wastewater generated by your household, the amount of solids carried in the wastewater, and the age of your septic system. After pumping, the tank and other components should be inspected by a professional for cracks, and the condition of the baffles. Leaks should be repaired promptly. Never crawl inside or lean into a septic tank without proper ventilation and safety precautions as the gases inside septic tanks can be deadly! It is also important to protect your drainfield or leach lines. A septic system depends on good soil conditions for treatment and disposal of effluent. Water must be able to percolate through the soil at a reasonable rate. To prevent soil compaction, don't drive vehicles on the drainfield. Do not pave, build, pile heavy objects, or place a swimming pool over a drainfield. These activities compact the soil, and microbes in the soil need oxygen to help them digest wastes. Signs of Trouble Some signs that your system might be failing or in need of maintenance include: ❑ Foul odors in your home or yard. ❑ Slow or backed up drains could be caused by a clog in the house pipes, septic tank, drainfield, or roof vent for your household plumbing. ❑ Wet, spongy ground or lush plant growth could appear if there is a leaking tank or failing drainfield. r� 22 a Repeated intestinal illnesses in your family could occur if your drinking water supply is contaminated by poorly treated wastewater. Have your drinking water tested annually for coliform bacteria and nitrates. ❑ Algal blooms and excessive weed growth in nearby ponds or lakes can be caused by phosphorous leaching from septic systems. Respond quickly to any problems you observe. It could be necessary to expand or modify your system to avoid further problems. Try to base your decision on what is best for the health of you and your family, and for the environment. Keep in mind that what seems like the least expensive option could be very costly in the long run. 23 Assessment 4-3: Septic or Sewage System Inputs* ` Source: NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home 24 LOW RISK MEDIUM RISK HIGH RISK YOUR RISK Solid There is no There is moderate use There is heavy use ❑ Low wastes garbage grinder of a garbage grinder, of a garbage ❑ Medium (dispose -all) in the and some solids are grinder, and many v High kitchen. No grease disposed of down the solids are disposed or coffee grounds drain. of down the drain. are put down the Many paper drain. Only toilet products or plastics tissue is put in the are flushed down toilet. the toilet. Cleaners, There is careful use There is occasional There is heavy use ❑ Low solvents, of household disposal of hazardous of strong cleaning ❑ Medium and other chemicals chemicals (paints, household chemicals in products that end ❑ High (also cleaning products). the wastewater system. up in wastewater. applies to No solvents, fuels, Hazardous holding or other hazardous chemicals are tanks) chemicals are disposed of in the poured down the wastewater system. drain. Water Only water Some water conserving Standard high- ❑ Low conser- conserving fixtures steps are taken (such as volume bathroom ❑ Medium vation and practices are using low -flow shower fixtures are used ❑ High used. Drips and heads or fully loading (toilets, showers). leaks are fixed washing machines and No effort is made to immediately. dishwashers). conserve water. Leaks are not repaired. Water Laundry and other Several water using ❑ Low usage major water uses appliances and ❑ High are spread out over fixtures are in use the week. in a short period of time. ` Source: NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home 24 . Septic or Sewage System Inputs • Don't treat the wastewater treatment system like a trash can or compost pile. Tissues, disposable diapers, baby wipes, sanitary napkins, tampons, condoms, cigarette butts, and other solid waste should be disposed of in the trash and not down the toilet. Since they do no break down easily, they can cause septic tanks or the settling tanks in sewage treatment plants to fill up faster. Using the disposal or grinder in the kitchen sink can also add to the load on the system. Excess grease, fats, and coffee grounds can clog your septic system. Instead, consider composting food waste as an alternative. Your local cooperative extension office can provide you with information about composting. Household Chemicals Wastewater treatment systems were not designed to neutralize the wide variety of common household chemicals. Paints, solvents, acids, drain cleaners, oils, and pesticides can pass untreated through septic systems and contaminate the groundwater. High concentrations or large volumes of water-soluble cleaners or bleach can harm septic tank microbes. Section 5, Managing Household Hazardous Products (page 27) of this handbook gives you information about the proper disposal of household chemicals. Avoid using chemical products advertised to improve septic system operation. They cannot replace routine pumping and could even be harmful. Buying and adding yeasts, bacteria, or enzymes is unnecessary as there should already be plenty of the right microbes digesting wastes in your system. Additives containing solvents to unclog your system can kill these microbes, and might contaminate your drinking water supply. Water Conservation and Wastewater It is estimated that the average American uses about 200 gallons of water per day. This includes water for drinking, bathing, washing clothes and dishes, and brushing your teeth. Reducing the flow of wastewater through the septic tank allows more time for solids to settle out and less chance of solid particles being carried into the drainfield or clogging the system. Less water in the drainfield means better aeration for microbes at work in the system. Here are some steps you can take to reduce the amount of water you use. 1. Take shorter showers, and turn the water off when washing and shampooing hair. 2. Repair leaky faucets, fixtures, and toilets immediately. 3. Run water only when necessary; for example, turn off the water while brushing your teeth or shaving. 4. Only run dishwashers and clothes washers when full. 5. Scrape but do not pre -rinse dishes before loading them into the dishwasher. 6. Adjust water softener settings to reduce the amount of water needed for backwashing and regeneration. 7. Spread out laundry or other major water -using chores over the week or day. 25 0 0 Action Checklist* Household Wastewater Write all high and medium risks below What can you do about the risk? Set atarget date for action Sample: Low area over drainfield is always wet Have drainfield inspected for blockages, and clean as needed. Divert surface runoff. One week from today: November 19 As always, your goal is to lower your risks. Use this action checklist to record your medium and high-risk practices. Use recommendations in this section to help you make plans to reduce your risks. ` Source NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk Assessment Guide for the Home MI Section 5: Managing Hazardous Household Products6 Some products used around the home contain ingredients that can pose threats to 19 your health or the environment unless they are properly handled. Vapors from solvents, like paint thinner, can be hazardous to breathe. Other products like motor oil or pesticides, if disposed of on the ground, can contribute to the pollution of a stream or drinking water. This section will help you make choices that will reduce risks to your family and your Watershed. You are responsible for the safe use, reuse, or disposal of any products in and around your home. Household products can be hazardous if they include ingredients that, if improperly managed, can pose dangers to human health or the environment. Unless product warnings and label directions are followed, health problems can be caused by some of the products in your home. Health effects can range from minor problems such as irritated skin or watery eyes, to more serious problems such as burns, poisoning, or even cancer. The potential harm from exposure to a hazardous product depends on: the type of chemicals in the product, how much of the chemical you are exposed to, how frequently you are exposed, and your size, weight, and overall health. Ingredients in some household products can be hazardous to plants and animals in natural environments. For example, pesticides or motor oil washing into a stream can harm fish. Human health can also be threatened if our food, water, or air becomes contaminated through improper use . or disposal of a household product. Most chemicals likely to cause environmental problems are regulated by federal and state laws. But, because it is difficult to keep track of the small quantities used by homeowners, we must all do our parts to minimize the impact of use and disposal. To protect the environment, don't dump oils, paints, pesticides, or any other household chemicals on the ground, on roads, or down storm sewers. Don't dump products into a wetland, stream, or any other body of water. Don't wash chemicals off the driveway with a hose. Don't pour pesticides or non water-soluble chemicals into a drain that leads to a septic tank, or spray pesticides on a windy day. Be sure to use up a product according to label directions, and share any leftovers with a neighbor or local organization. Find out if a product can be recycled and where to recycle it, or bring appropriate products to the hazardous waste collection program sponsored by communities like Lodi. Fill out the assessment on the next page to help identify your risks from hazardous products. Then read about recommended ways to select, purchase, use, and store these products at your residence on the following pages. Note all medium and high risks on the checklist at the end of this section. Using the checklist and information contained in this section, you can formulate an action plan to reduce the chances of hazardous household products harming your family or the environment. Also, plan to use the Hazardous Products examples and inventory list to learn about possible hazardous household products in your home. 6 Collaborating author Elaine Andrews, Environmental Resources Center, University of Wisconsin Cooperative Extension. 0% 0 0 0 Assessinent 5-1: Product Selection, Purchase, Use, and Storage* * Adapted with permission from NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home. 28 LOW RISK MEDIUM RISK HIGH RISK YOUR RISK Product I always read labels; I I don't read labels or don't I never read labels. I ❑ Low selection understand signal words; understand what they purchase products ❑ Medium and respect the health or mean, but I use a without considering ❑ High environmental hazards "common sense" approach what the product is made labels describe. I choose the to safety. of or how it will be used. least hazardous product needed for the 'ob. Quantities I buy only what is needed I buy excess product, but I buy more than is ❑ Low purchased for a specific job. I use up provide safe and needed, then purchase ❑ Medium most of the product within a accessible storage. additional product ❑ High few months after purchase without checking on or give excess away to current supplies. someone else. Safety I follow label instructions I occasionally read label I never follow label ❑ Low precautions and take recommended instructions. I take some instructions and take no 0 Medium precautions against precautions. I precautions -even when I] High exposure (such as providing occasionally mix products recommended. If one good ventilation and for specific cleaning tasks, product doesn't work, I wearing safety goggles and but I always check safety add in another without gloves). I never mix precautions first. checking safety products. recautionS. Child safety I store hazardous products I keep products out of the My products are easily ❑ Low in a locked cabinet or other direct reach of children accessible to children I] Medium location inaccessible to (on a high shelf, for (for example, in an 17 High children. example) but still unlocked cabinet on the accessible. lower shelf). Containers, I store leftovers in their I store original containers I store products in areas ❑ Low storage original containers, properly in a disorganized way. I with poor ventilation 0 Medium location, sealed. Products are stored don't provide protection such as basements, v High and spill by type. My home against leaks or spills. closets, or crawl spaces. protection environment is protected Containers are damaged against leaks ors ills. or left open. Ventilation I store volatile products I don't pay attention to I store products in areas ❑ Low (like solvents and storage location, but each with poor ventilation v Medium petroleum-based fluids) in container is in good shape such as basements, I] High places with good and tightly sealed. closets, or crawl spaces. ventilation. Containers are damaged or left o en. * Adapted with permission from NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home. 28 0 Product Selection, Purchase, Use, and Storage By carefully selecting a product for the job needed, you can control the degree of "hazard" at your home or property. It can be difficult to find out what is hazardous and how and to whom something is a hazard. Labels contain important information and often tell if a product could be hazardous. But, absence of a warning does not mean that the product is safe. Old products or those not designed for household use might not contain consumer information on the label. Information on the product label can help you decide whether a product is right for the job and if it can be used safely in your situation. Household consumer products that are hazardous or contain hazardous substances are required to have human safety information or warning labels. Before you purchase or use a product, take the time to read the label. These labels provide details about how to safely use, store, and dispose of a product as well as first aid instructions when appropriate. Signal words such as caution, warning, and danger draw your attention to important human safety information. On household products, they describe immediate health effects resulting from improper use. Products labeled danger, flammable, poison, vapor harmful, or fatal if swallowed can contain ingredients that could cause environmental damage as well as health problems if used, stored, or disposed of improperly. . When choosing among several brands of the same kind of product, read the labels to learn which product will meet your needs most safely. If you don't check first, you might buy a hazardous product such as a solvent -based cleaner when a detergent -based cleaner is available—or a common alternative like a kitchen cleanser will work. Buy Only What You Need If you buy more than what you need, household products will accumulate and create storage problems. If unused for long periods of time, product containers can become damaged and leak or products might change chemically and be less effective when you try to use them again. Safe Storage Leftover or used chemicals such as strippers, paint, waste oil, used engine coolant, and solvents may need to be stored until their next use or disposal. When storing these products, the primary concerns are child safety, indoor air quality, and prevention of damage to the household equipment or the environment. If you can smell a household product while it is in storage, the product lid may be loose, or ventilation may be inadequate to protect your health. Be sure to separate corrosives like acids or lye from each other and from other hazardous products to prevent dangerous chemical reactions. Reactions occur when corrosives leak from their containers and drip or flow to other products. Corrosive materials are often stored where equipment and appliances are located. Be aware that they can corrode air conditioning and heating systems, hot water heaters, and other equipment or appliances. Routinely check areas where you store household . products to make sure containers are closed tightly and not leaking, and that the sides of containers are not bulging. 0 Assessment 5-2: Product Disposal* WASTE LOW RISK MEDIUM RISK HIGH RISK YOUR RISK CATEGORY Household trash I rinse empty yard I dispose of ash I always dispose of ❑ Low and garden from mixed trash, ash from mixed trash, ❑ Medium Trash containing plastics pesticide containers leftover pesticides, leftover pesticides, o High or empty containers of hazardous ingredients. and include rinse and solvents on my and solvents near a water in yard and property, but away well or waterway. I garden from my well or burn hazardous management. I waterway. I burn containers near dispose of ash, hazardous people or animals. mixed trash, and containers. empty product containers at the community landfill. I do not burn trash. Strong acids and I share any leftover I pour strong acids I pour strong acids o Low Bases products. I dilute and cleaners down and cleaners directly ❑ Medium Found in hobby and strong acids and the drain without into a storm sewer or o High recreation products, concentrated building bases and pour first diluting them waterway or on a cleaners, and building them down a drain with water. I send paved slope leading repair products. that connects to a leftovers to a to a waterway. sewage treatment landfill (with facility. proper protection for garbage haulers and employees). Antifreeze, waste I recycle antifreeze I pour my used I dump used ❑ Low motor oil and waste motor oil antifreeze into a antifreeze and waste ❑ Medium by taking them to septic system or oil always in the ❑ High properly qualified municipal treatment same place near a dumping stations. system. well or waterway. I dump these materials directly into a waterway. Batteries I recycle batteries I dispose of I always dump ❑ Low May contain mercury, cadmium, or lead. or take them to a batteries in a batteries near a well ❑ Medium hazardous waste community landfill. or waterway. ❑ High disposal program. Bottled gas I recycle bottled gas I store containers I put containers in my ❑ Low containers. that may still trash or leave them ❑ Medium contain some gas. lying around. v High 0 . Source: NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home. 30 0 Assessment 5-2: Product Disposal (continued) WASTE LOW RISK MEDIUM RISK HIGH RISK YOUR RISK CATEGORY Cleaning and I share leftovers when I dispose of leftover I always dump o Low repair products possible. I take products in a leftover products. I ❑ Medium containing hazardous leftover products community landfill. dump leftovers near a p High solvents (non- containing mercury, well or waterway. I water-soluble) pesticides, or hazardous dump all my leftovers and paint solvents to a hazardous directly into a waste disposal waterway. (NOTE: program. this is illegal) Fluorescent bul I recycle burned -out I put my burned -out I leave my burned- ❑ Low Contain mercury fluorescent bulbs or bulbs in the trash out bulbs at a dump. ❑ Medium lamps. ❑ High Pesticides I use preventative When solving pest I DO NOT handle ❑ Low actions to control pests, problems, I do not pesticides as directed ❑ Medium indoors and outdoors. I practice much on the label. ❑ High explore options for prevention nor explore non -chemical pest non -chemical options. controls. I properly choose, store, handle, apply, and dispose of chemical pest controls. 31 0 0 Product Disposal Unless a product is used up, you will have to dispose of it. For some products that are especially hazardous, like pesticides, even the product container will have to be disposed of properly. Disposal should be your last option because it is wasteful, and unless done properly, it can be unsafe for you and the environment. You can avoid the disposal problem by buying only what you need, using up leftovers, or recycling. By giving left over products to a neighbor or a local organization that can use them, you can turn a potentially wasteful problem into a cost-saving opportunity. Household hazardous waste collection programs are held in San Joaquin County. Since only certain hazardous products are accepted, contact the program at (209) — 468 — 3066 to learn exactly what materials are accepted, and to get the dates and locations for collection sites. Used motor oil and engine coolant, for example, are accepted by some automobile shops and auto parts stores for recycling. Paint and Pesticides Municipalities that collect leftover hazardous household products report that paints make up about half of the material that people bring and thus are a costly (but avoidable) disposal expense. The best practice is to calculate how much paint you'll need before you buy it. Most leftover paint can be safely managed by sharing it with neighbors or organizations. But, exterior ro& " paints containing mercury, lead, or pesticides should be treated as hazardous waste. Before using a pesticide, be sure that you have exhausted other options for managing the pest, weed, or fungus problem. There are several simple ways to do this: maintaining regular cleaning habits, especially in the kitchen area, caulking cracks and other openings to the outside, keeping screens repaired, and keeping houseplants healthy by providing appropriate care. If you do need to use a pesticide, be sure to read label information carefully before purchasing and buy only what you need. Pay attention to use and disposal recommendations on labels. Before disposal, use up the product if possible. Rinse empty containers of liquid pesticides and use the rinse water as part of your yard and garden management. Section 7 of this handbook provides advice for managing yard and garden pesticides. It is never appropriate to dump or burn hazardous products on your property, and products should never be poured down storm sewers. Water-soluble cleaning products can be safely disposed of down home drains if you flush the drain with plenty of water. Septic system owners must be especially careful. The rule of thumb for septic systems is moderation. Don't dump large amounts of anything into a septic system. These systems are not designed to treat chemicals. If the product is specifically designed for home use with water, then moderate use will not harm the system. 32 J • Action Checklist* Manacling Hazardous Household Products Write all high and medium risks below. What can you do to reduce the risk? Set a target date for action. Sample: Cabinet with paint stripper and engine coolant is not child- proof. Buy a lock and install it on cabinet. One week from today: February 26 Source: NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home. 33 • Hazardous Product Examples and Inventory* Category/Product Is it properly stored? Is information about proper disposal needed? Are there special precautions to keep in mind? HOUSEHOLD TRASH Ash/sludge from burned home or garage trash Fluorescent bulbs (might contain mercury) Waste motor oil Plastic wraps and containers (only hazardous when burned Pesticide or solvent containers Empty containers from other product categories listed below CLOTHING AND FABRIC CARE PRODUCTS Mothballs Dry-cleaning fluids Spot removers (solvent -based Shoe/leather polishes HOBBY AND RECREATION PRODUCTS Artist paints and solvents Charcoal lighter fluid Strong acids/bases Bottled gas Household batteries (might contain mercury or cadmium) BUILDINGIWOOD CLEANERS AND REPAIR PRODUCTS Building and wood cleaners with organic ingredients: • Wood polishes • Products for wood floor and panel cleaning Building and equipment maintenanceproducts: • Strong acids/bases • Lead-based paint • ' Source: NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home. 34 • 8 Hazardous Product Examples and Inventory (continued) J Category/Product Is it properly stored? Is information about Are there special proper disposal needed? precautions to keep in mind? BUILDINGIWOOD CLEANERS AND REPAIR PRODUCTS (continued) Building and wood cleaners with organic ingredients: • Oillalkyd paints and rimers BUILDING/WOOD CLEANERS AND REPAIR PRODUCTS • Marine and exterior paints containing mercury and/or pesticides • Aerosol paint products • Stains and finishes • Roof coatings and sealants • Rust removers • Silicon lubricants • Other lubricants • Adhesive removers • Paint and finish preparation products • Adhesives such as lues and caulk • Wood -preserving products • Products for brush or spray un cleaning • Water repellents for wood and cement • Solvents, such as those used in degreasers and paint thinners, stains, and varnishes PESTICIDES Pesticides labeled "restrictive use" General use pesticides Old and unwanted pesticides 35 • Hazardous Product Examples and Inventory (continued) Category/product Is it properly stored? Is information about proper disposal needed? Are there special precautions to keep in mind? VEHICLE MAINTENANCE CHEMICALS Vehicle maintenance products such as engine coolant, oil and grease, and transmission fluid Solvents for oil and grease removal and disposal Engine and parts cleaners such as carburetor and brake cleaner Paints and paint preparation products Lead acid batteries Battery terminal protector Tire cleaners Rust removers Ignition wire dryer Gasket removers Aerosol paint and primer products Brake quieter Brush and spray gun cleaners 0 92 . Section 6: Yard and Garden Carel ID Most homes today, especially in residential areas, are landscaped with lawns, gardens shrubs, and trees. This section of the handbook examines the potential impact of yard and garden care on the environment. The natural settings of your home and property might be the last places you might look for pollution and stormwater runoff problems. But on average, homeowners use ten times more chemical fertilizers and pesticide per acre than farmers use on farmland. Especially if applied improperly, these chemicals can pollute nearby lakes and streams and find their way into drinking water wells. Indiscriminate watering of lawns and gardens wastes large amounts of water. Other problems occur when exposed soil washes away during a storm, harming wildlife habitat and choking waterways. Gasoline -powered mowers, weed UI cutters, leaf blowers, and other devices pollute the air. A L �' lawnmower powered by a two-cycle engine spews the same amount of exhaust as a car driven 350 miles! Though it might seem that what you do at your property is minor, the effects of chemicals, soil loss, and wasted water from thousands of homes in a watershed can add up in a hurry. Fortunately, you can have a low maintenance yard without losing the well -kept appearance of your home. Good management practices not only benefit the environment, they can also save you time and money. Imagine how much less time lawn care would take if grass clippings were left on the lawn instead of being raked and/or bagged. Think about the cost, time, and effort it would take to replace a lawn or garden damaged by over -fertilization or misuse of pesticides. The assessment table on the following page will help you identify potential environmental risks related to your yard and garden maintenance practices. Although some choices might not correspond exactly to your situation, choose the response that best fits. Then read the text in the following section to identify simple and inexpensive ways you can reduce your risks. Collaborating authors K. Marc Teffeau, Wye Research and Education Center, University of Maryland Cooperative Extension and Ray Bosmans, Home and Garden Information Center, University of Maryland Cooperative Extension. 37 • Assessment 6-1: Yard and Garden Care* • " Source: NRAES-87: Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home 38 LOW RISK MEDIUM RISK HIGH RISK YOUR RISK Fertilizers Soil is tested for nutrients, Soil is tested, but Soil is not tested, and ❑ Low and fertilizer is used as more fertilizer is fertilizer is used in large p Medium recommended used than amounts. ❑ High recommended. Pesticides Label instructions for Chemicals are used ❑ Low chemicals are strictly without regard to label followed or non -chemical instructions or p High or low -toxicity methods conditions. (such as integrated pest management) are used to control pests. Lawn (turf) Grass is suited to soil type, Grass is suited to Grass type is not suited ❑ Low type and available sunlight, and the site but is well to available light, soil ❑ Medium maintenance climate. Grass is pest- fertilized and type, or climate. Grass ❑ High resistant and mowed to the mowed short. is pest -prone and proper height. mowed too short. Ground Ground covers, flowers, A slow -spreading A hilly landscape or ❑ Low cover and trees, and shrubs are ground cover is lack of ground cover ❑ Medium other plantings planted to reduce soil used. causes soil erosion. ❑ High erosion. Plantings resist Plants require insect and insects and disease. disease fighting chemicals to survive. Composting The compost pile is well- The compost pile is The compost pile is ❑ Low maintained: it is aerated poorly maintained: poorly maintained: it p Medium regularly and contains yard it is not aerated or contains excessive high- ❑ High waste, vegetable food lacks the proper nitrogen material and is scraps, and a nitrogen mix of materials. not turned regularly. source such as manure Dog, cat, and other The pile is less than 50 pet wastes are feet from a shallow well added to the pile. or surface water. Water Grass, flowers, trees, and Landscape plants Heavy watering is ❑ Low requirement shrubs are able to survive require light to required to keep the ❑ Medium s of plants with normal rainfall. moderate watering. lawn and other plants v High alive. Watering Watering is done in the Watering is Watering is done during ❑ Low methods morning or evening, only excessive. (For the heat of the day. The ❑ Medium as needed. Low-water use example, the sprinkler system is used ❑ High devices (like soaker hoses) sprinkler is left daily without regard to are used. The sprinkler unattended, and weather conditions. system is on manual much water lands There is excessive water control. on thepavement.) runoff. • " Source: NRAES-87: Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home 38 0 Managing Lawns, Gardens, and Landscaping Normal applications of lawn and garden products generally pose few problems. A properly maintained home landscape can even help reduce soil erosion and increase water retention and soil fertility. Poor maintenance through either neglect or excessive chemical use can lead to soil problems, polluted runoff, and unsafe well water. The first step is to have your soil tested. Soil already has some of the nutrients needed for good plant growth (i.e., nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium). It is important to find out how much of each nutrient is present so you will know how much and what kind of fertilizer to use. Adding fertilizer without first testing your soil is like taking medicine without knowing if you need it. Check with your local cooperative extension office or garden supply store about soil testing. The soil tests will let you know if your lawn needs fertilizer, and if it does, how much and where. If you apply fertilizer at the wrong time or in the wrong amount, you can make conditions worse and insect and disease problems can increase. Excess fertilizer is likely to wash away before grass can take it up. Fertilizer in runoff contributes to unwanted plant growth in nearby streams and lakes. In sandy soils, nitrogen and other chemicals can seep downward and enter groundwater that is used for drinking. If you hire a lawn -care service, make sure they test your soil before applying fertilizer. Insist that the fertilizers only be applied when the weather is favorable (no wind, rain is not expected for at least 24 hours). Be sure to keep pets and children away from treated lawns for at least 24 hours. Always sweep excess fertilizer off ofwalks and back onto the lawn so it doesn't get washed into storm drains by rain or sprinklers. Non -chemical fertilizers such as compost, fish meal, and other soil treatments should be applied based on the needs of your lawn. Proper Lawn Care Cutting grass to the right height is important. Lawns cut too short invite weeds to invade. Grass clippings should be left on the lawn. In many cases, they supply enough natural fertilizer so that only minimal additional fertilizer is needed to keep your lawn green and healthy. Clipping should be swept off of paved surfaces so they don't get carried away by stormwater. Switching to a human -powered or reel mower can reduce air and noise pollution, and provide exercise. If you reduce your lawn size and grow plants that require little maintenance, a reel mower can be very practical. If your lawn is too large to efficiently use a reel mower, consider an electric lawnmower. Making compost is a cost-effective, natural way to handle leaves, grass clippings, and other yard wastes. Composting creates an organic, slow-release fertilizer and soil -enhancing material. It takes advantage of nature's recycling system for breaking down plant and other organic materials. To compost, simply put yard wastes in a pile, or install home made or purchased bins to contain the material. In addition to yard waste, you can add vegetable trimmings and fruit peels, and coffee 39 grounds from your kitchen. The compost pile will remain relatively odor -free if it is turned and aerated regularly. Finished compost can be mixed into garden soil or spread on lawns as a slow-release fertilizer. Check the library, your local Cooperative Extension Office, or garden stores for suggestions and other ideas (see page x for contact information). Residents of rural areas should be cautious about using animal manures in compost. Many animal manures contain high levels of nitrogen, and different types of manures have different nitrogen levels. If you mix manure from horses, sheep, cows, or other plant -eating animals into your compost, add plenty of high -carbon materials such as leaves, straw, or sawdust to keep concentrations of nitrogen and other nutrients low. This will help prevent contamination of runoff and groundwater. Do not put pet wastes (for example, cats and dogs) into compost piles due to potential parasite and disease problems. Pesticide Use Pest prevention is often simpler and cheaper than pest removal. Pests will be less of a problem if you have disease resistant grasses and other plants. Grass and native plants suited to local rainfall amount, temperature, soil type, and available light will always be more resistant, and require less chemicals than other types. Consult will your cooperative extension office or the California Native Plant Society for advice. . If properly used, pesticides can pose only a minimal risk to your health and the environment. Correctly identifying the pest is the most crucial step. Many plant problems are related to temperature extremes, over -watering, drought, damage caused by lawnmowers, or overuse of chemicals, rather than by insects. When using pesticides, apply them only where pests occur. Select chemicals that are the least toxic or that break down quickly into less harmful substances. Be sure to read the label carefully and follow all directions for application rates and methods. And always ask yourself if you can tolerate a few more weeds and "bugs" around your home for the sake of clean groundwater and an environment with fewer chemical pollutants. 114, Y Integrated Pest Management or IPM is a systematic approach to controlling pests in your landscape. Weeds can be controlled by hand - pulling or hoeing, and bugs can be removed by picking them off vegetables and garden plants. Cleaning up dead leaves and debris removes potential pest homes. Using natural predators to control pests is another method. Release beneficial insects and microorganisms that feed on pest insects into your garden. For IPM to work, you will have to give a little more time and attention to your yard and garden. When you have no other choice, try to find nontoxic or Iow-toxic chemicals such as insecticidal soaps. Follow directions carefully, and mix only the amount you need. 10 40 Watering Practices The average American uses about 200 gallons of water each day. This includes water used for cooking, bathing, washing clothes and dishes, and drinking. Up to half of that total is used for landscaping and gardening, depending on climate, the time of year, and the plant species on your property. Because of the long dry season in California's Central Valley, many homes have automatic sprinkler systems for lawns, gardens, and landscape plants. It is not unusual to go up to five months without rain in the watershed. Because so many people must water their lawns and gardens, it is vital to use efficient watering practices. Watering should be timed to meet the biological needs of plants. Watering slowly and deeply helps develop deep roots, and in the long run plants will require less frequent watering. Because of the long dry season, the use of native plants that are accustomed to the hot, dry summers of the valley might be the only way to reduce your water usage. Consider using drought -resistant turfgrass species for your lawn, such as tall fescues or buffalo grass. Perennial flowers conserve water because their roots grow deeper than annual flowers and require little or no watering once they are established. Plants can absorb only so much water. Overwatering wastes water and can injure certain plants. Some estimates indicate that up to 85% of all landscape problems are directly related to over - watering. Placing several containers with marks at one -inch intervals under your sprinklers will help you gauge how much water your lawn or garden is getting. Drip irrigation systems and soaker hoses deliver water to the intended plants more efficiently than broadcast spraying. The time of day when you water matters, too. Early morning is the best time of day. It allows the water to get deeper into the soil with minimal evaporation. If you water during the heat of the afternoon, much water can be lost to evaporation. Try using a wood chip or other kind of mulch in gardens and around shrubs and trees. Mulch helps to cover and cool the soil, and it helps discourage evaporation, weed growth, and erosion. Preventing Erosion Soil washed away by runoff can pollute streams, lakes, and wetlands. Even if you don't live near water, soil can eventually be carried to surface water in runoff from. Gardens, lawns, and construction sites with areas of bare soil, especially on sloped land, are prone to soil erosion. Using mulch or planting ground -cover vegetation can help reduce erosion and protect soil at the same time. Using landscape fabric is another option. On steep slopes, plant a vigorous ground cover and avoid turfgrasses, which require mowing and watering. You can also help prevent soil loss by building terraces or retaining walls on slopes. Again, be sure to choose plants that are suited to the area and resistant to insects and diseases. In general, your lawn will require three to four feet of water per year (including rainfall). If you are putting more than this amount on your lawn (use the container method mentioned above to measure), you are likely overwatering. Consult your Cooperative Extension Office or local garden store for advice on improving watering efficiency. 41 c: Local Laws Governing Water Use for Lawns and Gardens If you live within the city limits of Lodi, you are subject to the requirements of the City of Lodi Water Conservation Ordinance. This conservation measure seeks to help the city conserve precious freshwater resources while still providing ample water for landscaping and other household needs. Lodi residents should be aware of some simple guidelines contained in the ordinance designed to eliminate the wasting of water. These provisions include: ■ Watering of lawns, gardens, outdoor plants, and landscaping is allowed only on permitted watering days. Houses with odd -numbered addresses may water on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays. Houses with even -numbered addresses may water on Tuesdays, Thursday, and Saturdays. Watering is not allowed on MondUs. ■ Watering lawns, gardens, outdoor plants, and landscaping is only permitted before 10 a.m. and after 6 p.m. from May 1 through September 30 each year. Watering between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. is prohibited during these months. ■ Allowing excess water to flow into a gutter or any drainage area for longer than three minutes is prohibited. The ordinance also bans the use of a hose for washing down sidewalks, driveways, parking areas, patios, and other paved areas or buildings including tennis and basketball courts. There are no open hoses allowed. A bucket should be used to wash motor vehicles, trailers, boats, and other moveable equipment. A hose can be used only to rinse these items, but not for more than three minutes. A common sense suggestion is to shut off all automatic sprinkler systems during and following rain. This is especially true from November 1 through February 28, which are the predominant months for rain in California's Central Valley. During this time, one watering per week or less should be more than enough. It is best to turn automatic sprinkler systems off from November 1 to May 1, and use the systems on a manual setting only if it has not rained for more than two weeks. 42 0 0 Action Checklist* Yard and Garden Care Write all high and medium risks below. What can you do to reduce the risk? Set a target date for action Sample: Fertilizers applied but soil has never been tested. Find laboratory that does soil testing. Take samples and send them to lab. One week from today: March 15 Source: NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home. 43 0 • Section 7: Liquid Fuels: Safe Management of Gasoline, Heating Oil, Diesel, and Other Fuelsg We use liquid fuels every day to power vehicles, run machines, and heat homes. If you are like most people, you own at least one fuel -burning device such as a lawnmower. You likely keep fuel for these devices in portable containers that hold from one to five gallons. For home heating and vehicle use, especially in rural areas, you might have larger quantities of fuel in underground, basement, or aboveground storage tanks. Fuel stored in portable containers, and in the gas tanks of fuel -burning devices such as leaf blowers, weed trimmers, chain saws, auxiliary generators, or motorboats, is a potential risk to groundwater and surface water. Fuels are hazardous and can pollute the water you drink and the air you breathe if improperly managed. As little as one gallon of gasoline can quickly contaminate groundwater above health advisory levels. Petroleum products contain many toxic compounds, including benzene, which is known to cause cancer. AgaN Don't depend on taste or smell to alert you about fuel in your drinking water. Unknown or forgotten underground tanks have come back to haunt property owners. Contaminated soil and water can make property values plummet, trigger environmental liability and costly cleanups, and drive away lenders and prospective buyers. Fuel vapors can ignite fires or collect underground and explode. Aboveground and underground fuel storage tanks generally are not found in residential areas of Lodi, however they might be used by some businesses, or by residents in rural areas of the watershed. Fuel stored in large tanks pose greater risk of contamination than the small quantities stored for lawnmowers and similar equipment. Though it is important to pay particular attention to the high potential risks from large tanks, storing any amount of fuel increases the environmental risks around your home. For suggestions and precautions regarding management of large fuel tanks on your property, refer to the "Special Considerations" section of this handbook. Improving fuel storage and management protects the health of your family, the community, and the environment. Better management will also safeguard your home. Check all the places where you store fuels at your home. Use the assessment table on the following page to evaluate your practices. The assessment table will help you identify potential environmental risks from fuel storage on your property. Although some choices might not correspond exactly to your situation, choose the response that best fits. Then read the text in the following section to identify simple and inexpensive ways you can reduce risks to your family and the environment. 8 Collaborating authors Richard Castelnuovo, National Farm*A*Syst Office, Madison, Wisconsin and Dean Solomon, Michigan State University Extension. 44 r' Assessment 7-1 Liquid Fuels: Portable Fuel Containers* 0 'Adapted with permission from NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home 45 LOW RISK MEDIUM RISK HIGH RISK YOUR RISK Quantities Stored Moderate amounts Fuel is stored more Excess quantities of ❑ Low of fuel are than six months fuel are purchased. 0 Medium purchased. Fuel is before use. Fuel is stored more ❑ High stored for less than than twelve months. six months. Container Safety Fuel is stored in Fuel is stored in a Fuel is stored in a non- ❑ Low UL -approved or UL -approved or approved container (for ❑ Medium original sale original sale example, a glass jar or ❑ High containers. container with signs open container) of age or damage Storage Location Fuel is stored in a Fuel is stored in a Fuel is stored inside the ❑ Low well -ventilated, garage attached to the home or in the ❑ Medium unattached garage house. The area is basement. Dirt floor is 0 High or shed away from poorly ventilated. least safe. the house. Concrete floor is best. Management and Fuel is used up in Fuel is stored on-site Fuel is poured down a ❑ Low Disposal devices, so disposal indefinitely or until house drain or storm ❑ Medium is unnecessary. evaporated. drain, poured on the 0 High ground, or sent to a landfill. (These practices are illegal) Leak Detection Storage containers Storage containers Storage containers and ❑ Low and fuel -driven and fuel -driven fuel -driven devices are ❑ Medium devices are devices are never examined for ❑ High examined often for sometimes examined leaks. leaks. for leaks. 0 'Adapted with permission from NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home 45 0 Portable Fuel Containers and Tank Location 0 0 It is best to purchase and store minimum amounts of fuel for short periods. This means you should buy in small quantities and buy no more than you need for a month or so of mowing the lawn. It is also important to use only safe, approved, or original sale containers to store fuels. UL -approved containers (red for gasoline, blue for kerosene, and yellow for diesel) can be purchased in places as convenient as your local hardware store. The container should be clearly labeled to identify its contents, and fitted with a spout or other device to allow pouring without spilling. Be careful when pouring gasoline, a fuel mixture, or other recommended fuels into a motorized device. Use a drip pan under your work area to avoid spills. Absorb any spills with kitty litter, sawdust, or corn meal. You can dispose of the materials from a small spill by placing them in a plastic bag in the garbage. Materials from a large spill should be taken to a hazardous waste disposal event. Storing fuels in an uncovered or unapproved container, such as a glass jar or plastic jug, is dangerous. For an extra measure of spill protection, keep fuel containers inside a bucket or other container that can prevent leaks from spreading. Keep Containers Safe and Check Them Regularly To reduce the health hazards and fire danger of fuel vapors, be sure to keep fuel containers and fuel - powered devices in a secure, well -ventilated place with a paved floor. Storage in an unattached shed or garage is safer than storing them in a garage attached to the home. Store containers off of the floor and keep them out of the reach of children. Make sure the lids are tight to prevent easy access. Check for leaks from storage containers and fuel driven devices periodically, especially if they haven't been used for some time. Small leaks can add up over time. It's best to keep a regular schedule of inspection and maintenance. Always recycle or safely dispose of engine maintenance products (see Section 5, Managing Hazardous Household Products for more information about disposal and recycling). It is crucial to know about fuel storage tanks on your property. This includes tanks that are currently in use and those that are abandoned. As a tank owner, you have many responsibilities and must keep up with increasingly strict laws. You are also financially responsible for leaks from a tank on your property, even if you are unaware that the tank exists. Standard homeowners insurance typically will not cover the costly clean-ups that can be required. To learn more about your legal responsibilities, contact state environmental and health officials. 46 0 Action Checklist* Ui uia i-wis: 5are mana emenr or uasolme, neaung uu, ulesel, ana uiner ruels Write all high and medium risks below. What can you do to reduce the risk? Set a target date for action. Sample: Gas for lawnmower stored in a glass jug. Buy a UL -approved container from the hardware store. One week from today: April 2 • . Source: NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home 47 Section 8: Managing Household Waste: Preventing, Reusing, Recycling, and Composting9 There are many alternatives for disposing of household waste, and many ways to reduce the amount of waste we each generate. Consumption practices and waste disposal have a definite effect on air, soil, and water quality in your home, on your property, and in your community. Surveys show that most consumers do not realize what makes up solid waste. Many people think that we throw away more plastics by weight than we really do, or that disposable diapers are a larger part of the solid waste stream than they really are. In reality, U.S. EPA figures show paper and paperboard make up nearly 39 percent of this country's solid waste; the largest percentage of any type of solid waste. Yard waste like leaves and grass clippings is the next largest component at nearly 15 percent. Plastics actually come in third at just under 10 percent. But it is important to understand the extent of the waste we produce as a nation. The United States leads the world in the amount of waste produced, energy consumed, and in use of the earth's natural resources. This is not a good thing. Consider that we as a nation use up to 50% of the world's non- renewable resources, and by some estimates produce 38% of the world's waste. By contrast, the U.S. has only 6% of the world's population. Changing from a resource -consuming lifestyle to a resource conserving one will help maintain natural resources while creating less waste. • For purposes of working through this section, here are some terms you should know: Trash or waste includes items and materials that are no longer wanted, anything that is useless or discarded. Reusables are items that are used again by a different user for a different purpose. For example, a jelly jar that is used as a drinking glass but not reprocessed into raw materials, and then a new product. Recyclables are materials like glass, metal, paper, oil, and even refrigerators that are collected, separated, and processed back into raw materials to be made into new products. Compostables are primarily yard and food wastes that can decompose and return to the earth as nutrients or soil. Garbage is generally food waste or wet food of either plant or animal origin. Municipal solid waste (MSW) is household waste combined with commercial, business, and institutional waste. Use the assessment table on the following page to identify areas where you can minimize waste. Indicate your waste potential in the right-hand column. Some choices might not correspond exactly to your situation, so choose the response that best fits. Then read the text on the following pages for ideas on how to prevent and minimize waste around your home. Take note of all medium and high waste potentials, and write them down on the checklist at the end of this section. 9 Collaborating authors Shirley Niemeyer, University of Nebraska -Lincoln; Michael P. Vogel, Montana State University Extension Service; and Kathleen Parrott, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University. 48 0 0 Assessment 8-1: Preventing and Minimizing Waste, Reusing, Recycling, Composting* 0 ' Adapted with permission from NRAES-87: Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home. 49 LOW WASTE MEDIUM WASTE HIGH WASTE YOUR POTENTIAL POTENTIAL POTENTIAL WASTE POTENTIAL Quantities I only buy what I I sometimes buy I often buy ❑ Low purchased need and avoid more product than I more product ❑ Medium accumulating unused can use. than I can use. v High products. Product I select products I sometimes consider I never consider ❑ Low durability and based on their durability, ease of durability, ease ❑ Medium potential for durability, ease of repair, or potential for of repair, or v High reuse repair, and potential reuse. potential for for reuse. reuse. Recyclability I regularly purchase I sometimes consider I never consider ❑ Low of packaging containers/packaging recyclability when recyclability. ❑ Medium that can be recycled making purchases. a High locally. Packaging When safe to do so, I I sometimes consider I never consider ❑ Low selected select packaging that packaging that packaging that ❑ Medium minimizes waste. minimizes waste. minimizes ❑ High waste. Reusing I reuse as many I reuse items when it I never reuse ❑ Low household wastes as is convenient to do items. ❑ Medium possible so. ❑ High Recycling I recycle as many I recycle when it is I never recycle. ❑ Low household wastes as convenient to do so. v Medium possible. v High Composting I compost all yard I compost some yard I never ❑ Low wastes and kitchen or kitchen wastes. compost. ❑ Medium vegetable scraps at ❑ High home or in a city program. 0 ' Adapted with permission from NRAES-87: Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home. 49 0 Preventing and Minimizing Waste Each day we make purchasing decisions, and every purchase involves a certain amount of waste production and use of natural resources. Your decision to select a certain product or no product at all will determine the type and volume of waste that you will someday discard. You can use your purchasing power to minimize your impact on the environment by selecting products that minimize waste, last longer, and use less natural resources. These practices are sometimes referred to as precycling and enviro-shopping. Enviro-shoppers typically ask the following questions before making a purchase: • How much do I need? • Are my purchases long-lasting and reusable? • Is the product package recyclable? • Is the product or its packaging made from recycled materials? • Do I buy products with the least amount of packaging? These questions are very important. Primarily, enviro-shopping means buying only what you need. A good price on bulk packaging might seem like a good deal, but you can end up wasting money and natural resources because unused or spoiled product will eventually have to be thrown away. Similarly, long-lasting and reusable products might seem more expensive but they can be a better investment in the long run. Look for products that can be: fixed when broken, reused, passed on to someone else, or used for another purpose. For example, reusable gift bags can reduce the need to buy wrapping paper. Many product containers and packaging materials are potentially recyclable. To promote recycling, many manufacturers use a recycling symbol featuring chasing arrows (below). But be aware that this symbol could mean that the product or packaging is made from materials that are suitable for recycling if your local recycling program will take them. If you can't recycle it locally, you might be able to take materials to a neighboring community that will accept it. But, be careful not to waste more natural resources (like gasoline) than you will save by recycling. Combine a trip to the recycling center with other tasks. A variety of products, from carpets to detergent bottles to trash bags, are made from recycled material. Materials will be made into new products once recycled only if there is a market for them. You can support and encourage markets for recycled material products by buying recycled. Look for the words "made from recycled materials" or "made from post -consumer recycled materials." Post -consumer recycled materials are those made from materials that have been recycled by consumers like you. For example, billions of recycled beverage cans are melted down and made into new cans each year. About one-third of the paper, plastic, glass, and other material we throw away comes from packaging. While packaging provides some useful services like preventing food spoilage and ensuring consumer safety, some unnecessary packaging wastes natural resources and becomes waste soon after a product is purchased. Good enviro-shopping means choosing products that have the . least amount of packaging while still assuring your safety. 50 0 Reusing, Recycling, and Composting Reusing items should be the first objective in minimizing waste, because it typically has the least environmental impact. Returnable glass beverage bottles are an example of a reusable product. Reuse is often limited only by the imagination. If you take some time to think, it is easy to find uses for more materials than you realize. Sharing old clothes and used furniture is a common form of reuse. if you can't share them with family or friends, or sell them at a garage sale, why not donate items (in good condition) to homeless shelters, thrift shops, or organizations like Goodwill. See if a local gift shop or store will take foam packaging "peanuts," or whether neighbors or local organizations have any use for excess paint, lumber, or empty plastic pails. Or, put a list of excess materials on a postcard or piece of paper and post it on a local community bulletin board. Recycling Many communities in California, including Lodi, operate curbside recycling programs. Have you checked recently to see what kinds of items are generally accepted in the containers provided by the municipality where you live? Materials accepted by these programs go far beyond glass and aluminum. Many programs also accept catalogs, envelopes, junk mail, aluminum foil and trays, plastic bottles and jugs, tin and steel cans, chipboard, corrugated cardboard (including shoeboxes), and newspapers. Check with the city or your waste -hauling contractor to get a complete list of acceptable items. The more items you can put in the recycling bin, the less will go to a landfill. And, recycling helps to save natural resources. Use the information sheet on the next page to keep . track of what is recycled locally, where to take the items (if they aren't accepted in curbside pick- up), and how to prepare them for recycling. 0 Many local communities also collect yard and garden waste such as grass clippings, cuttings from trees and shrubs, and weeds. You might consider using some or all of your yard and garden waste for composting. when combined with some kinds of kitchen scraps, yard and garden waste can be turned into a natural soil conditioner and fertilizer. Materials from around the home that can be composted include: leaves, grass clippings, plant trimmings, straw, kitchen scraps (like coffee grounds and vegetable trimmings, but not animal wastes, fat, bones, or pet waste), ash from your wood -burning fireplace, and even small amounts of paper. The end product is a dark brown, crumbly material that has a clean, earthy scent. You can spread it on lawns, or mix it with garden soil. To compost at home, you can use one of the many compact and efficient composting bins on the market, or you can build your own. The local cooperative extension service can provide you with more detailed information about composting. 51 0 What Can You Recycle In Your Area* Item Recycled where? How should it be prepared? Paper/cardboard Glass Plastic Aluminum Steel Other metals Automobile batteries Oil Tires White goods/appliances Wood/lumber Bricks/concrete Other: * Source: NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for The Home 52 11 0 0 Action Checklist* Manaaino Household Waste Write all high and medium waste -making potentials and risks below? What can you do to cut waste or reduce the risk? Set a target date for action. Sample: Products are purchased without considering whether the packaging is recyclable. Find out about Lodi recycling program and try to buy products with packaging that can be recycled locally. One week from today: May 19 " Source: NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home. 53 0 Section 9: Special Considerations This section of the handbook deals with situations that might affect some people in the watershed, but not the majority of people. For example, very few houses in San Joaquin County have basements. Few people in Lodi are likely to have underground or aboveground storage tanks for gasoline, diesel fuel, or heating oil. However, there are some people in the watershed who have such tanks on their property, or who have houses with basements. This section of the handbook will offer advice on how to safeguard your property and the watershed in these special circumstances. This section of the handbook will offer helpful hints for the following special situations: • Swimming pool and spa water • Basements • Riverfront property • Lead-based paint • Underground and aboveground storage tanks for gasoline, diesel fuel, heating oil, and other types of fuel. While there may be relatively few homes in the watershed where these examples apply, potential threats from these circumstances to your property, the community, and the environment are so great that it is vital they be addressed in this handbook. • Please fill out any sections in the assessment on the next page that might apply to your home or property. They will help identify potential risks on your property from these special considerations. Then, read about ways to reduce threats at your home and in your community on the pages following these assessments. Note all medium and high risks on the checklist at the end of this section. Using the checklist and information contained in this section, you can formulate an action plan to reduce potential pollution. Though only one or maybe none of the special considerations might apply to your property, it might be a good idea to read through this section for your own knowledge. 0 54 0 Special Considerations Assessment* • . Parts adapted with permission from NRAES-87: Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home. 55 LOW RISK MEDIUM RISK HIGH RISK YOUR RISK Pools/Spas Emptying I dechlorinate the water and I dechlorinate the I don't ❑ Low swimming use it to water lawns, water and empty dechlorinate the ❑ Medium pools and spas gardens, and plants over a the water into the water before ❑ High period of several days. storm drain or discharging it into surface water. a storm drain or surface water. Note: This is illegal) Basements Basement Stormwater is diverted from No special water No water diversion ❑ Low protection basement windows by diversion methods methods are 0 Medium window well covers or are installed, but attempted. ❑ High other devices. Yard is stormwater has Stormwater runoff sloped away from the never entered the has entered the foundation. Downspouts basement. basement or flows direct roof drainage away near the from the house. foundation. Lead Age of home Built after 1978. Built between 1950 Built before 1950. ❑ Low and 1978. ❑ Medium p High Interior paint No lead-based paint (LBP). LBP present but Defective LBP: it ❑ Low intact. is chipping, v Medium peeling, or ❑ High chalking; or paint disturbed by recent remodeling. Windows and No LBP, or windows and LBP present but Defective LBP: it ❑ Low doors doors with lead based paint intact. is chipping, v Medium have been replaced. peeling, or ❑ High chalking; or untrained workers have recently removed the paint. • . Parts adapted with permission from NRAES-87: Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk -Assessment Guide for the Home. 55 0 c: 0 Special Considerations Assessment (continued) 56 LOW RISK MEDIUM RISK HIGH RISK YOUR RISK Lead Water supply No lead water pipes, Lead present in Lead likely to be ❑ Low leaded solder, or brass plumbing, but water present in ❑ Medium fixtures used in has been tested and plumbing, but ❑ High plumbing. precautions have water has not been taken. been tested and no precautions have been taken. Water acidity or Hardness is around 80 Hardness is 60-80 Hardness is ❑ Low corrosiveness milligrams/liter milligrams/liter below 60 a Medium pH = 7.5-8.5 pH = 6-7.5 milligrams/liter a High H = less than 6 LBP on exterior No LBP, or LBP is LBP is weathered LBP is chipping, ❑ Low of house present but intact. There or chalking. There peeling, or ❑ Medium is a lawn or dense is LBP in the soil chalking. There v High landscape plantings around the home, is bare soil or around the side of the but foot traffic is foot traffic below home. painted walls. Major There is no major There is a major ❑ Low roadways roadway nearby. roadway within ❑ High 85 feet. Lead -related No lead -related industry Lead smelter, ❑ Low industry or incinerators in the battery ❑ High area. manufacturer or recycler, or other lead -related industry nearby. Fuel Tanks Water table The water table (distance The water table is The water table ❑ Low to groundwater) is between 5 and 10 is 5 feet or less 0 Medium consistently more than 10 feet below the below the v High feet below the surface. surface. surface. Leak detection Tank is regularly tested Monthly fuel use No testing of fuel ❑ Low procedures for "tightness" and accounting is done. use is done. a Medium monthly fuel use ❑ High acco, ing is done. Spill and overfill Filling is closely Filling is ❑ Low protection supervised. unattended. I] High Tank Tank is on a containment Tank is on an Tank has no ❑ Low containment pad/dike capable of impervious surface protection to ❑ Medium (aboveground tanks) holding 125% of the tank without a berm or contain major ❑ High volume. dike for leaks and spills. containment. 56 0 i Special Considerations Assessment (continued) 57 LOW RISK MEDIUM RISK HIGH RISK YOUR RISK Fuel Tanks Tank security Tank or pump is surrounded Fill hose is locked There is no fence or ❑ Low (for gas and by a 6 foot locked fence, (required by law). enclosure around the ❑ Medium diesel) plus there is a lock on the tank, and there are no ❑ High PUMP. locks. Damage Tanks and pumps are on Tank is in contact ❑ Low protection stable concrete or steel with the ground or on ❑ High supports. Tank is well- poor footings. Tank protected from damage by is not well -shielded impact. from impact. Inactive tanks Inactive tanks have been Inactive tanks have Inactive tanks have ❑ Low removed. been left in place, been abandoned and ❑ Medium emptied, and filled left underground (or ❑ High with approved aboveground). material. Inspection for Tank sites have been Tank sites have not ❑ Low contamination checked for signs of soil been checked for ❑ Medium and groundwater signs of v High contamination. contamination. iver rontage Property Nature of There is at least a six foot There is a small There is no buffer ❑ Low riverbank buffer of riparian plants buffer of riparian strip of riparian ❑ Medium along the bank. There are plants and/or some plants. Artificial v High no artificial bank artificial bank bank strengthening strengthening materials strengthening material is leaning or (concrete rip rap, brick, material. There falling into the river, wooden beams, etc.) and no are some signs of or there is severe signs of erosion or bank erosion undercutting and I am undercutting. and/or losing property to the undercutting. river. 57 0 Swimming Pools and Spas Many people are fortunate to have a swimming pool or spa/hot tub. When performing maintenance on pool and spa structures or their filtering systems, it is sometimes necessary to drain them completely. Because chemicals are added to pool water, special care must be taken when they are drained. The law allows pool and spa water to be discharged into a storm drain, but only when certain conditions are met. Pool and spa water can contain chlorine, copper, and filter backwash which can all be toxic to aquatic life. Chlorine is used in pools and spas to purify the water. But chlorine also kills bacteria, and is used to make insect and weed killers. Recommended chlorine levels for spas and swimming pools is between 2 and 4 ppm. Chlorine levels higher than 0.01 parts per million (ppm) are harmful to aquatic organisms, and exceeds the level allowed by the California Department of Fish and Game for discharge into surface water. So, before pool water can be sent to a storm drain, it must first be dechlorinated. There are two common ways to dechlorinate water. First and easiest, you can just stop adding chlorine to your pool or spa and wait until the chlorine naturally dissipates. Or, the water can be treated with a chemical dechlorinator. Either way, use a pool testing kit to be sure the water is safe. But rather than send the dechlorinated water straight to the storm drain, consider using it to water lawns, gardens, and plants. It's a great way to conserve water. Copper found in pool water can come from algae control products and from copper plumbing and 10 equipment. This is especially true for spas or hot tubs with heaters. The recommended dosage for most algaecides is generally about 100 times higher than concentrations that are toxic to many aquatic organisms. The Environmental Protection Agency says copper levels in a pool greater than 0.10 ppm could be harmful to aquatic life. A pool maintenance company or pool supply store can test your water for copper, and recommend the best way to reduce or eliminate copper levels. And once you do the work on your pool or spa, never discharge wastewater from acid washing, plastering, grouting, or filter backwash into the storm drain. Maintaining the proper chemical balance of pool and spa water, and regularly cleaning and inspecting the pools filtration system will minimize the need to drain your pool or spa, and prevent unnecessary corrosion of copper pipes and equipment. It will also save you money in the long run by prolonging the life of your spa and pool equipment. 58 0 Riverfront Property Residents fortunate enough to live along the Mokelumne River or one of its tributaries can have an even more direct effect on the quality of the river than others who live farther away. Although people who live miles away from river and stream banks can still improve water quality by addressing risks, people who live along the river can have a greater impact on what the river is or will become. Start by looking at your property. Chances are, it slopes towards the river. That means runoff from rainfall and lawn watering will flow directly to the river. If you mow your lawn all the way to the riverbank, runoff (and the fertilizers, insecticides, and pet wastes it contains) has a greater chance of finding its way into the river. It might be even more — important for you to consider "naturalizing" your yard with wetland, woodland, or other riparian vegetation. One of the best ways to slow and filter runoff is to make sure there is a buffer strip of thick vegetation and trees along the waterfront. Roots from native trees and vegetation will help control erosion of your property by stabilizing and strengthening stream banks. This vegetation also provides habitat for wildlife such as birds and butterflies. Trees and wetland plants also act as a sponge by helping to absorb floodwater, slowly releasing it over time. While buffer strips and riparian plants can't stop floodwaters from rising, they can slow down water flows and will reduce erosion damage compared to properties where the lawn is mowed to the riverbank. Get more information and ideas on ways to enhance your waterfront property from several sources. Contact the San Joaquin County Cooperative Extension Service, the Natural Resources Conservation Service, the San Joaquin County Resource Conservation District, or the East Bay Municipal Utilities District. See page x for contact information. Basement Seenaze and Flooding" Stormwater in a basement can be a hazard in two ways: if water carries contaminants or disease organisms into your home; and if water picks up chemicals stored in your basement and carries them into the sewer or ground. To help prevent water from entering your basement, seal common stormwater entry points like basement doors and windows against leaks. It is best if window and door sills are at least a foot above the ground. Window wells that extend above ground level can help divert stormwater, and windows at or below ground level can be protected with clear plastic covers. Be sure to slope your yard away from the foundation to prevent water from pooling near the house and leaking into the basement. ' � Collaborating authors Carl DuPoldt, Natural Resources Conservation Service and Carolyn Johnson, University of 10 Wisconsin Cooperative Extension. 59 . Lead In The Home12 Lead poisoning is a serious but preventable health problem. This soft metal has been used in a variety of products including paint, solder, water pipes, and crystal. Lead is dangerous because it never breaks down into a harmless substance. Many homes have one or more sources of lead. These sources include lead-based paint (LBP), drinking water delivered through lead pipes or in contact with lead solder, household dust (which can contain lead dust from deteriorating LBP or remodeling), and soils contaminated by leaded gasoline exhaust and disintegrating LBP. Lead can have wide-ranging effects on humans. Even very low lead levels in children can slow mental development and cause learning and behavioral problems. Lead can also cause high blood pressure in adults. Higher levels of lead can damage the reproductive and nervous systems. Lead has been eliminated from residential paint, gasoline, solder and water pipes over the years. But, many older homes can still contain LBP. Newer homes can contain lead from other sources. The US Department of Housing and Urban Development reports that 74% of all homes built before 1980 have dangerous levels of LBP. Homes built before 1950 are very likely to have high lead levels because some pre -1950 paint was 50% lead. To find out if the paint in your older home contains lead, have it analyzed by experts who test samples in a laboratory. Do-it-yourself home kits are available in some stores, however they will indicate the presence or absence of lead but not how much lead is present. Check with local health officials to find out what testing options are available. 10 Lead was added to paint to inhibit the growth of mold on the surface of the paint. Paints with higher lead levels were used where exposure to moisture is greatest: on windows, doors, and exterior walls. If LBP is intact it poses little risk, but if it is chipping or chalking off then the risk of exposure is greater. Remodeling or renovating areas where there is LBP is particularly risky. Scraping, sanding, or burning LBP creates extremely hazardous conditions and caution is needed, especially if children, pregnant women, or pets are present. LBP removal by untrained workers who do not use the proper methods and equipment can create a much greater health hazard than just leaving the paint alone. In some private wells, underwater pumps with brass fittings can cause elevated lead concentrations in drinking water, especially with new pumps or if the water is soft. Water that is soft or acidic can be corrosive and tends to dissolve lead from pipes and fitting more easily. Lead can also enter drinking water through lead pipes and connectors, lead -soldered joints in copper plumbing, and lead - containing brass faucets and pump components. Contact your local health agency for instructions on how to take a water sample for your home. Action is recommended if lead levels are greater than 15 parts per billion (ppb). One simple way to reduce lead concentration in your plumbing system is to flush the system. Installing a water treatment device such as a reverse osmosis system may be necessary for severe lead contamination. If high levels of lead are found, there are some simple steps you can take to reduce your risk. For example, plant grass or cover soil with mulch to prevent your family from tracking soil indoors. It 0 " Collaborating author Karen Filchak, University of Connecticut Cooperative Extension. 60 . will also reduce the lead -contaminated dust your family will breathe. Also, use only cold tap water for cooking and drinking because hot water is more likely to dissolve lead. Lead Outside The Home Lead contaminated soil is a problem when children play outside, when soil is tracked inside the home, and when vegetables are grown in contaminated soil. Soil can be contaminated by flaking, peeling, or chalking LBP that follows the drip line of the house. Lead levels tend to be highest where house walls meet the ground. Leaded gasoline exhaust has been responsible for high levels of lead in soil in high auto traffic areas, with the highest levels recorded near major roadways. The shift to unleaded gasoline has reduced the risk, but lead levels can still be high even years after contamination. If you live near industrial sources such as incinerators, lead smelters, or battery recyclers, you should be concerned about lead in your soil. Urban residents should consider having soil tested for lead before planting a vegetable garden. Testing the soil is the only way to detect a lead problem. Soils with lead levels of 400 ppm or more should not be used to grow vegetables unless the top 6 to 8 inches of soil is replaced with non -contaminated topsoil. Lead is usually found in the top 2 to 3 inches of undisturbed soil. Under new standards, lead is considered a hazard if there are greater than 400 ppm of lead in soil in childrens' play areas, or 1200 ppm average for bare soil in the rest of the yard. 10levels. lead levels within 85 feet of busy roadways are typically 30 to 2,000 ppm higher than natural levels. Some soils have lead levels as high as 10,000 ppm. Soil adjacent to houses with exterior LBP may also have lead levels as high as 10,000 ppm. Levels near industrial sources can be dangerously high, especially downwind. Rural residents who live near old orchards, or suburban dwellers who live in a subdivision built on an old orchard should also consider having soil tested. Some old orchards can have high lead levels due to lead -containing pesticides that were applied during the 1940's. 0 61 Aboveground or Underground Fuel Tanks' It is vital to know about fuel storage tanks on your property, including both tanks now in use and those that have been abandoned. You are financially responsible for leaks from a tank on your property, even if you are unaware that the tank exists. Standard homeowners insurance does not typically cover the costly cleanups from a leaking tank. The greater the distance between any tank and nearby drinking water wells or surface water, the better. The minimum distance allowed in San Joaquin County is 100 feet. Other factors do influence the risk related to distance. Tanks are safer when located downhill from wells. Sandy and gravelly soils that allow pollutants to seep more rapidly into groundwater are another factor. Pipes, hoses, valves, and fittings connected to a tank can be a major source of leaks. They are often overlooked, especially if buried underground. Piping generally fails due to corrosion, accidents, and weather-related factors. Professional installation and inspection are the key to avoiding problems. Leak Detection Leak detection is more complicated for underground tanks, and critical for tanks over 15 years old. Set up a regular inspection schedule for leaks and damage to all tanks, including any heating oil tanks in your basement. One way to check for leaks is to monitor the level of fuel over time. Precisely measure and record the amount of fuel in your tank each month. Compare your records to the amount of fuel delivered and dispensed. Differences in your records could indicate a leak, but ' this method is not always accurate and small leaks can be missed. Underground heating fuel tanks dispense automatically when in use, and are best monitored during the summer. Your senses are a vital part of leak detection. Warning signs include: • Any unexplained oil -like substance on streams. • Wet places near the tank. • Soil near the tank is stained with petroleum. • A strong and constant smell of petroleum near the tank. You or your neighbors smell fuel odors near plumbing or sewer line openings, or taste fuel in your drinking water. Normally, you should be able to see leaks from an aboveground tank, but be aware of possible leaks in areas you can't easily see, such as any place the tank is in contact with the ground. Also be aware of unusual or changing operating conditions at the pump. If your suction pump rattles, the fuel flows unevenly, or if the pump hesitates too long before dispensing, your piping may be damaged or leaking. Spill Protection The most common—and most avoidable—pause of spills is overfilling. Close supervision of fuel transfer is one of your best forms of protection. Never walk away while filling a vehicle with fuel. ' '' Collaborating authors Richard Castelnuovo, National Fann*A*Syst Office, Madison, Wisconsin and Dean Solomon, Michigan State University Extension. M Automatic shutoff devices are available to help prevent spills, but they're not suitable for every tank. Box -like containment structures for aboveground tanks can prevent leaks and spills from spreading. Containment measures should be able to keep the entire contents of a tank from escaping. It is best to construct a concrete dike and spill pad. Aboveground tanks are also susceptible to damage from vehicles and other objects. Be sure tanks are placed on a solid, stable base or on footings made of brick, cinder block, or concrete. If the tank is not enclosed in a structure, be sure to install posts or other barriers around it. If you have a basement tank that holds household heating oil, be sure nothing is stored around or under the tank. Abandoned Tanks and Tank Removal Abandoned or inactive tanks are an environmental threat until they are removed. Sometimes leaks are discovered when a tank is removed. Soil around and under the tank should be inspected for obvious sign of leaking (odors, stains, or visible fuel). If you suspect contamination, a more thorough site assessment should be quickly arranged. Whenever a leak is discovered, it should be immediately reported to local officials and state regulators. You are expected to minimize harm to the environment as soon as possible whenever a leak is detected. State funds may be available to help defer cleanup costs. State Laws Governing Underground Fuel Storage Tanks California laws covering underground fuel storage tanks have changed. All underground tanks are required to be double -walled and protected against corrosion. Piping and spill protection for these tanks must also be reinforced. There are new monitoring, reporting, and record-keeping requirements, and, specific requirements for spill containment. The changes are too numerous and varied depending on type of tank and fuel delivery system to all be included them in this handbook. If you have specific questions or concerns about underground fuel storage tanks, contact with San Joaquin County Environmental Health Division at (209)-468-3420. Permits for tank installation, removal, and repair in San Joaquin County are available on the world wide web at: http://Nvww.2eocities.com/unitiii Information about state requirements and laws governing underground fuel storage tanks is also available on the world wide web from the State Water Resources Control Board at: http://,Aww.swrcb.ca.gov/cnThome/ust/usthmp2.htm 63 0 0 Action Checklist* ,special uonsiaeratlons Write all high and medium risks below. What can you do to reduce the risk? Set a target date for action. Sample: No special stormwater Extend basement window wells One week from diversion methods around basement. 12 inches above the wound. todav: April 18 . Source NRAES-87, Home*A*Syst: An Environmental Risk Assessment Guide for the Home 64 LI For More Information Contact Telephone Number Website Alternative Roofing plans www.roofineadow.com California Conservation Dept.- Recycling Division (916)-323-3836 www.consrv.ca.gov California EPA -Toxics Heb) Desk (916)-327-1848 www.caleaa.ca.eov California Health Services Dept.- Drinking Water and Environmental Management (916)-322-2308 www.dhs.ca.gov/ps/ddwem/ California Pesticide Regulation Department -Environmental Monitorine and Pest Manaizement (916)-324-4100 www.cdpr.ca.gov California Toxic Substances Control -Public Assistance (916)-322-0476 www.dtsc.ca.gov California Water Resources Control Board (CWRCB) (916)-341-5250 www.swreb.ca.gov CWRCB-Non pint Section (916)-341-5494 www.swrcb.ca.gov CWRCB-Stormwater Proerams (916)-341-5529 www.swrcb.ca.gov California Native Grass Association I www.cena.ore California Native Plant Society (916)-447-2677 www.cnps.org Landscape Management Outreach Partnership (800)-449-4840 (209)-468-3066 Lodi Public Works Dept.- water/wastewater (209)-333-6740 www.lodi.gov/html/pub_works.htm] Lodi Public Works Dept. -Water Conservation Officer (209)-333-6829 Lodi Refuse and Trash Collection (209)-369-8274 Lodi Storm Drain Detectives www.lodi.eov/html/Dub works.html Motor oil and filter recycling (800)-253-2687 Recycling, Source Reduction (209)-468-3066 Regional Household Hazardous Waste Prop -ram (800)-449-4840 San Joaquin County (SJC) Cooperative Extension -Farm & Home Advisors (209)-468-2085 http://cesanjoaquin.ucdavis.edu SJC Public Works -Solid Waste (209)-468-3066 www.co.san-joaquin.ca.us/pubworks SJC Public Health Services- F,nvironmental Health (209)-468-3420 j SJC Resource Conservation District (209)-946-6241 www.sjcrcd.org SJC Sewer and Water (209)-468-3090 www.co.san-joaquin.ca.us/pubworks United States Department of (209)-946-6229 www.nres.usda.gov Agriculture -Natural Resource Conservation Service 65 0 Glossary of Terms Bacteria — microscopic, one -celled organisms that can live in soil, water, air, or other organisms. Many kinds of bacteria are helpful and can be used to help break down garbage or sewage (as in septic systems). Harmful types of bacteria can cause disease in humans, animals, or plants. Bedrock — solid rock, generally unbroken and covered by soil and rock fragments. Solid rock underneath soil or exposed at the surface. Depending on the type of rock that makes up bedrock, it could be porous or impermeable. Benzene — a natural component of petroleum and petroleum-based products. Short-term exposure can cause dizziness, drowsiness, and/or nauseau. Can also result in irritation to eyes, skin, and longs. Prolonged exposure to benzene vapors can cause irregular heartbeat, stumbling, sleepiness, or even death. Cancer and/or blood disorders might result from repeated exposure. Broadcast Spraying — a method for applying fertilizers or pesticides by scattering over a wide area. Not recommended, especially for home applications. Applied in this manner, fertilizers and pesticides are subject to wind drift and can miss intended target areas. Chemical Reactions — when elements and compounds react together to produce different compounds. For example, when bleach and ammonia are mixed together, they form the toxic gas ' chloramine. Compost — yard and food waste that has naturally broken down. An earthy smelling, soil -like substance that can be used as fertilizer or combined with soil to enrich it. Compostables — items that can be used to make compost, including yard waste and some kitchen waste. Yard waste can include leaves, shredded branches, and grass clippings (though grass clippings should be left on the lawn). Kitchen waste suitable for composting includes vegetable and fruit scraps, coffee grounds, and eggshells. Never put meat scraps, fat, lard, bones, whole eggs, or pet waste into compost as these items draw pests and create a haven for harmful bacteria. Corrosive — any chemical that causes a breakdown of materials. This breakdown can be either a chemical or physical interaction that changes the structure of a material and its physical properties. A typical corrosive is acid. Drip Line — the area where stormwater runs off of a roof without gutters. Enviro-shopping — purchasing products with the least amount of packaging, or buying in bulk if the food or items will not be wasted. When buying fertilizers, pesticides, paints, or other household hazardous products, purchasing only the quantity that will be used for a specific job at one time. Filter backwash — water or other liquid that can be contaminated by chemicals or sediment ' contained in a filter, such as might be used for a spa, swimming pool, or septic system, Reverse water flow back through a filter to remove entrapped solids. :. Garbage — food waste or wet food of either plant or animal origin. Ground cover — low, herbaceous plants used for covering the ground in place of grass. They can be used to slow runoff and hold sediment, especially in sloped areas. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) — a systematic, more environmentally friendly approach to controlling landscape pests (including weeds). Using natural predators (including beneficial insects and microorganisms) to control pest insects. Non-toxic or low -toxic chemicals are used selectively and sparingly, if chemicals are used at all. MTBE (methyl tertiary butyl ether) — a synthetic chemical added to gasoline to improve air quality. However, this chemical has been placed on the Environmental Protection Agency's list of contaminants for soil, air, and drinking water. Municipal Solid Waste — household waste, combined with commercial, business, and institutional waste. Nitrates — compounds consisting of potassium nitrate or sodium nitrate. Generally found in fertilizers. Nitrates are a groundwater contaminant that can migrate into aquifers. Non -point source pollution (NPS) — contaminants from unspecified locations. NPS comes from many different sources rather than one specific, identifiable location. For example, sediment, debris, and chemicals carried into the Mokelumne River via stormwater runoff from neighborhoods. (See also point -source pollution). Nutrients — when referring to water pollution, generally considered plant nutrients. Nurients are natural or chemical substances that promote growth. In the context of this handbook, anything that promotes the growth of algae or bacteria. Sources of nutrients include sewage and septic runoff, detergents, industrial waste, fertilizer runoff, and livestock waste. Pathogens — any disease -producing organisms. Point -source pollution — contaminants that can be traced to a specific location or activity. For example, discharges from a manufacturing plant or a leaking fuel or chemical storage tank. Post -consumer — when buying recycled goods, it means that all or part of the goods or packaging is made from materials that have been recycled by consumers like you. Pre -cycling — Selecting products that last longer, use less natural resources, and produce a minimum of waste; or selecting products that have multiple uses, can be easily repaired when broken, or passed on to someone else. Recyclables — materials like glass, plastic, paper, metal, or even appliances that are collected, separated, and processed back into raw materials and made into new products. 67 0 Reel mower — a type of lawn mower that uses human -power. When pushed, the mower's wheels provide the force that turns the blades to cut the grass. Using a reel mower reduces air and noise pollution while providing exercise for the user. Reusables — any item that can be used several times for the same purpose. For example, reusable canvas shopping bags can eliminate the need for paper or plastic bags at grocery stores. These bags are often easier to carry, and are stronger and less susceptible to tearing or breaking. Riparian vegetation — grasses, shrubs, and trees that grow along the bank of a river or other body of water. These plants are adapted to wet conditions, and perform the dual purposes of stabilizing streambanks to reduce erosion and sedimentation, and can help reduce damage from flooding by slowing the rate of water flow. They also serve as a filter for runoff by helping remove debris and contaminants. Runoff — In the context of this handbook, rainwater not absorbed into the ground or rainwater that flows across property, roofs, driveways, sidewalks, and streets. Sanitary sewer — the sewer that carries waste water from inside the home (for example, water from sinks, dishwashers, tubs, and toilets) to a sewage treatment plant for removal of soaps, solids, and other contaminants. Solid waste stream — the total flow of solid waste from homes, businesses, institutions, and manufacturing plants that are recycled, burned, or disposed of in landfills. Storm drain — any drain designed to cavy rainwater or runoff out of a specific area. Storm drains are found in streets and parking lots. They convey water directly to a river or catch basin, not to a treatment plant. All contaminants picked up by stormwater as it flows across paved areas are deposited directly into the river. Surface water — any water that is permanently or regularly on the earth's surface, such as a pond, lake, wetland, estuary, river, stream, or bay. Total Dissolved Solids — a sum of the disintegrated organic and inorganic material in water. Excessive dissolved solids make water unfit to drink or use in industrial processes. Trash — items and materials no longer wanted or used. Anything that is useless or worthless. Waste. Waste — items and materials no longer wanted or used. Anything left over or superfluous. Trash Watershed — the land area that contributes water to a specific surface water body. Water soluble — capable of dissolving in water. Water table — the level at which the soil is saturated with water. M.